Search results

What he said . (y)

You know this whole idea of making the MultiFuel engine into some kind of performance engine (something it was never designed to do) reminds me of this group of 1950's car buffs that would take the Chevy 235cid engine and beef it up to around 300HP or more. They could do it. I had a friend who...

Any air tank can be installed if you have the space to do it. I have installed three extra tanks myself. Two are stainless steel ones I bought off eBay. Just needed to buy brackets that fit the diameter and installed them. Fittings are nothing to worry about.

First off. If your going to save the pistons and jugs then mark the pistons so you know which hole they came out of and put them back in the same hole. They have worn into that liner and you don't want them to have to wear into another. That will just cause excessive blowby and possibly piston...

Looks good ! Though I bought a new smaller steering wheel since I'm going to install power steering, so I'll stick to the original look.

Here's what I did with my brake master cylinder. In picture one you see the adapter I bought that bolted in place of the plastic bowl. Then I mounted a double reservoir to the firewall and ran stainless steel teflon hose to the master cylinder.

OK. The bracket is hard to find, but the master cylinder was used by a few modern trucks. So it's still available. I didn't realize your truck has the single master cylinder, so going with a totally different system would be the best option for you. Myself I prefer the Chevy/GMC medium truck...

I have no doubt that they learned quickly ! We were warned about getting in trouble with the Shore Patrol. If caught we were to expect some pretty rough treatment. It was your own fault if caught, so no whining afterwards !

The maximum brake pressure I can get without the brake booster is 500 PSI. That's basically standing on the pedal and using the steering wheel to pull me in. I'm not really sure what you're trying to do here. There is already a dual brake master cylinder on the later Deuces that works great...

(y)

800 PSI is the standard operating pressure with a working brake booster.

Now that's using your head ! Sounds like a Marine solution. Adapt, improvise, overcome.

Didn't see your post when you originally posted it, so I'm responding now. Yes. Whenever one of our "military" vehicles get in an accident the Feds get all upset. Then there's the usual nuts asking why military vehicles are even allowed in civilian hands. The crash is usually posted all over...

Thankfully I bought over a dozen from you Ziggy ! Now I wished I had bought about 30 more !

Usually the brake booster vent line is on the firewall on the left (correction right) side, but you never know anymore. Who knows who did what with it. So I would trace it from the booster itself. Had to correct my mistake. I wasn't thinking from the driver's seat which all directions come from...

Big riggs have had an "air over hydraulic" system for decades. Many trucks and buses had hydraulic front disc brakes and air operated rear axle brakes. They all suffered from brake lag and leaking hydraulics. The best system I ever worked on was the "Breda" bus made in Italy. Very complicated...

When I was on my Injection pump rebuild jag, I found that the LDS engine had different springs that allowed the RPM's to ramp up faster. This would account for faster spooling of the turbo. There were other small adjustments here and there, but basically the springs where the big deal.

That will check the rod bearings, but the wrist pin bushing and piston skirt collapse cannot be tested without pulling out the piston assembly. Though you can get a feel for the piston by grabbing the rod and pulling it hard back and forth and see how the piston moves in the bore. Should be no...

I've written on this topic for years now. I've even called the manufactures of the gear boxes. The best oil for a transfer-case/differential that see's heavy gear load (shear) should be a gear rated 80w/90 to 90w/140 oil. Depending on the climate use the 80w/90 for colder temps, and the 90w/140...

Honestly it's a rod knock, or severe piston slap. That test you did by eliminating the injector is a classic test for rod knock. Remove the fuel and there's no pressure so no knock. Same applies to gas engines. Remove the spark plug wire and listen for the knock to go away. You don't always have...