Search results

It's iron. Need one repaired? Welding is problematic. Check out www.locknstitch.com They're masters of iron block repair. They are small engine affordable despite the big projects they brag about on their website.

Yeah, don't do that. Lines come off the pump in 4 pairs. It takes 5 minutes to take them all off once the manifold is clear. If you take the lines off in sets you don't have to remove any clamps. This is true for most diesel engines.

If it has a 28MT starter, it says right on the nose cone "No Shim". The starters wear at the pad mount if you run them without the bracket. Make sure to check that. The nose cones are available aftermarket.

I guess he split our advice. I said let the head gaskets be, don't use gaskets. He left the head gaskets and used gaskets. Another note, while the valve covers and oil pan are supposed to be RTV. The front cover and water pump are supposed to use anaerobic gasket maker. For future reference...

We don't play that game out west where a jump costs the same as two batteries and you still have two bad batteries when you're done. I do new batteries every 5 years in my vehicles.

There are two sets of numbers. The specification and the service limit. The 0.005-0.015 would be specification and is what you set the clearance to be when assembling. The service limit is the clearance when the assembly is considered worn out and should be removed from service. I don't know...

A lot of people are moving away from the expensive metal bodied pin and sleeve connectors. The marine industry is moving to disconnect duty connectors. They're about 75% of the price of the metal connectors but much less expensive overall to install as they don't require a disconnect switch...

There are 3 phase 208Y/120 panels for this application. No need to split.

I put group 31 batteries in mine. I was using it as a daily driver and didn't want to mess around with oddball batteries.

Amazon has the stainless ARP starter bolts on sale for $16. I just bought a pair. Otherwise, Leroy has the whole set: https://leroydiesel.com/products/arp-starter-bolts-with-washers-12-point/

That's what happens when someone replaces the Packard 56 series (currently Aptiv) terminals with standard spade terminals. The spades don't tolerate very many plugging and unplugging cycles.

"The owner indicated the coating was designed to wear less than metal on metal splines and was more forgiving to drivelines that rarely got greased." Well, these ones should never get greased. You don't want to damage the coating. Grease has forever been problematic in splines as the rotation...

Direct drive the motor of the starter is inline with the pinion gear. With the gear reduction starter the motor is offset. Your first picture on this post looks like a 28MT which is a gear reduction starter.

It's direct drive vs gear reduction starters. The 28MT is the gear reduction starter. You'll need the bracket for that one.

It's a nylon or epoxy coating that contains lubricant. It prevents fretting wear caused by normal movements of the coupling. There are a few suppliers of these types of coatings. https://www.wrightcoating.com/specialty-coatings/processes/wrylon

My 1986 CUCV had the triangle spacers. The 2001 6.5 engine I am installing in it didn't have the spacer. I will be using the 1986 mounts and spacer though I can't see any visual difference between the two.

"Electricity travels on the outer surface of the wire and once corrosion starts so does resistance." Skin effect is only at very high frequencies and with AC power. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_effect With that said, corroded wires are never a good thing.

If it broke the bolts then it was certainly working. The brackets should be the same regardless of voltage. You can spin the starter off engine. I usually grab the motor lug and starter housing with jumper cables and put my foot on the starter. Make the connection at the battery side, the...

The Delco 28MT is the premium starter for this engine. It's available in both 12 and 24v models.

Honestly, the 6.2 heads will have cracks and the shop will want to repair them. The cracks are usually superficial. But, I have noticed that the fire rings wear into the cylinder block and a head gasket replacement will snowball into a full teardown. These head gaskets don't have any elastomer...