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Give me your ESN and the p/n of the pistons you got, I'll check it out

As long as the system did not drain, the line can be replaced and just the wheel it goes to can be bled.

Since this has come up a few times and it is a common issue, Here is a QSOL image of the latest P/N's for the front end of the C. By latest, 12 Mar 2018. If you notice, the is no more gasket between the cover and the gear housing. It leaks constantly. Use a silicone BASED adhesive, not red...

Ouch! That hurt......I think there is something in my eye. You are older than me, so, as long as I can climb up, in, out, under it, so can you.:clinto:

They let YOU play with hammers?

HOLY CRAP! I forgot to finish this thread. I have the rest of the pictures somewhere, saved them to either a flash drive or a CD, I am looking for them. But, ended up getting a replacement idler shaft to replace the worn one, replaced the inner idler and bearings. The front went together...

Its around 56 mph at 2600 with 900x20's. 45 is a good cruise speed.

This and the CARB regs that were on the horizon is why I sold my truck a few years back.

I have used these guys before..... http://www.usautoelectric.com/store-products-SRY12105-Solenoid,--For-24-Volt-Delco-40MT--50MT-Starters_1096909184.html

PM me your engine serial # and i'll get you current part numbers

Has the storm subsided? Forward progress man! :whistle:

I'd wait on the alt bkt until you do some more troubleshooting. Drop the pan and look up the bottom to see what the liners look like. Pull the head, IF it got hot, you could have the same issue as another guy here that had a cracked block between liners. I think he went ahead and put it back...

No, "off the shelf" GM trucks were used in the 80's, the 70's "off the shelf" trucks for the US were the M880's

Clint, IIRC it takes a different drive gear, the pump gear nuts are different sizes so, I am almost positive the shaft/taper is different. Also, again, IIRC, the MW is timed two ways, one with the pin in the engine and pump AND by a letter aligned with the cam gear, still an easy fix. BUT, do...

In pump screen filter is ONLY in case the pump grenades. It stops metal from getting to the injectors...it filters backwards, inside out and has a magnet in it, it has no effect on the way the engine performs. Run it out of a bucket to eliminate a chassis issue because a pump can cause the same...

You dton't need to remove the housing, just buy a new pin ans clip, you'll be fine. And you can adjust the overhead by watching the valves. #2 exh all the way down is tdc #1. Start there.

DD has a fuel shut off cable, correct? If so, leave the so in the off position, crank 'till you see pressure on the gauge, then light it off. Pull the clean air pipe to the engine, keep a co2 extinguisher or a board handy just in case the rack is stuck.

Gimp, take a run down there and look at this guys stuff.

Like I said....bypass it and you will know immediately if the dryer is the issue. A day wasted with no forward progress.....

Bypass the dryer to see if that is the issue before ripping into the compressor