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And....the turbo is a muffler.... according to Ca law. If you think a multi is loud, wait 'till you run a straight pipe gasser out by the window!

To change the bushing in the cover, the accessory drive needs to be removed....can not do it with the shaft sticking through the front. There is timing involved with that procedure.

If it has scored liners, that is the most likely issue for the coolant on the oil. When the piston and liner decide to swap material, the lower seals get real hot, bake and crack. They then put coolant in the oil. You need to find out WHY the cylinders scored. Heads don't crack too often unless...

This is a 10 year old thread! The sleeve is on the pulley, no oil hole. The BUSHING is in the gear cover, there IS an oil passage to align. If you can't eyeball it, use a marker and draw a line straight out from the oil passage, drop it down over the edge of the bore. Draw a like on the outside...

Hot water with Dawn dish soap and wash the engine. Put some miles on it, sometimes leaks will seal up if an engine/chassis has been dormant for a long period of time. They will not seal up if capscrews are loose but if they are tightened up, they might. 50/50 chance.

We have an M901 at the Museum that has that same dragon on it. We lightly sanded it to bring the image out better and made a copy of it. I'll snap a pic next time i'm there.

Well, both locations. The air pack connection might be hard to bubba because the "t" is the air pack casting, IIRC, it's been a bit since I had to mess with the brake end. The air tank side could have had fittings/components removed so it might be tougher to put back into service

Bummer...Frank8003 posted some good diagrams, you should be able to figure it out from there. Hopefully, whoever did the bob did the right thing by removing the line and just plugging the ports.

Your truck SHOULD have both lines plumbed back there already. Look for two ball valves, they operate backwards from a normal ball valve, handle in line is closed and 90 degrees to the line is open.

They do not like to idle. Idle time and short hops will lead to oil oit the exhaust. Do like stated above, run it hard....they like it!

I actually used house paint inside the bed on my deuce. It held up well.

The compressor needs to come off to get them out.

Don't worry about the white smoke on the 475, that's normal, will only smoke at idle/no load. They were POS until you turned the fuel up. Smokes white cause no air to the MVT actuator. I think Clint has bit off more than he can chomp on what with the transplant AND the tipper:naner:

Don't you have another project to start/finish first?

Secondary is pressurized. A messed up gasket makes a mess. 20 to 30 PSI there

No, can't replace the ferrules, once on the line, no can take off. Over torquing the nut can crack the line.

If the delivery lines are leaking, SOMETIMES it helps to crack the line while the engine is running. If when assembled, debris got into the seat area, the fuel will push it out and things will seal up. If the lines were over tightened, the ferrules could have been damaged.

You'd be better off by putting the bleeder at the outlet of the pressure filter, the fittings are the same and it is a higher point. Good idea installing a bleeder. Just a tidbit of info, Bosch inline pumps are self bleeding. Hold the pedal to the floor and the engine will fire.

Make a line from the lift pump into a bucket of clean go juice. See if it will run on that. If it runs 'till the bucket dries up, your issue is before the lift pump.

I ran 100% new hydraulic and ATF, my pig loved it!