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Yes. Keep it hydraulic.
I planned on using mine as a "retrieval" vehicle. I have had several "experiences" trying to retrieve a vehicle out of state where it was in a bog or big open "muddy" field. Since it was out of state I did not have all my equipment at hand and had to use what I brought...
One thing I would do is to totally clean or better yet sandblast the housing, (inside and out) then paint it with a good aluminum primer paint and gloss enamel later. This will protect the metal from corroding in the future. Also put some "NO-OXIDE" paste on the contacts. I did that with mine...
I would keep the master cylinder the bus came with and just add the Deuce's "Air-Packs" to boost the brake pressure. Then you could use the stock wheel cylinders on the Rockwell Axles. Basically all your using from the Deuce is the transfer-case, the axles and the brake "Air Packs" . The rest is...
You only drain the oil for extreme long term storage (years). What the manual says is to install "new" oil and run it for a few minutes, then shut-down the engine. Then loosen the rocker arms to allow the valves to close. I would only loosen the rocker arms if I was going for a few years storage...
I would use the Deuces power boosters so the master cylinder on the bus would work fine. The engine axle clearance might present a little difficulty, but a little torch work and a hammer should help out there ! Or just cut and weld until it fits.
If you type in "federal guidelines for bus safety" you will see why. They must meet stringent standards for crash safety among others.
My little design doesn't really show want I want to do. I want a 40FT bus. Then I would cut off the back half and reattaching it to the front making a small...
Yes I know YOU drive your Deuce, but for those who like to store it through winter my suggestions are mostly from the military's own manual for long term storage.
Yep. The best thing for long term storage, especially in winter is of course to treat the fuel. Let the engine run until the treated fuel goes through the whole system then shut it down. The next thing to do is remove the injectors and pour some good oil down each hole. Replace the injectors but...
True. I should have specified that as long as the tire does not move from the wheel rim it is safe to re-inflate. Now if after you let all the air out from the tire and it moves from the wheel rim then "Yes" put it back in the "tire cage" or remount it on the truck to inflate the tire. It is the...
Canvas tarps are fare superior to PVC in strength, but the elements destroy them pretty fast. Especially here in the wet Pacific Northwest. I had one that only lasted two years then "rotted" away. I suppose you can put on one of those additives that helps preserve the canvas, but I have found...
I was going to use 11.00X20 tires and keep the deuce transfer-case. Though I do have one of the MRAP transfer-cases. I might try and squeeze it in. The year of bus would depend on the DT466 engine. I prefer a "non" ECM (electric control module) engine. Much simpler to install. No need for the...
Your saying the driveline concerns are not valid ? Well I see your truck does well off road, now take it on the freeway and lets see how it handles. Especially lets see a emergency swerve to avoid an accident.
Before you do go on the freeway it would be wise to add a full rollbar to your truck.
Well to continue my little tutorial on mounting tires, here I'm installing the assembled tire unit to the wheel.
Align the valve stem with the wheel cut-out and lower the tire down at an angle.
Then push down the valve stem towards the cut-out and slowly push the tire into the wheel...
I found that originally the first M35's came with galvanized wheels ! Some of my 1954 M35 wheels with the rivets underneath all the paint and crus where galvanized. Totally surprised me to ! Then I looked up the original NSN # and data chart and found they came galvanized from the factory as per...