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Are you referring to the little bit poking out past the trunion? If so, all that is the bushing on the front cover. The trunion is the front mount, there should be rubber between the cover and the mount. It looks in tact and normal. Getting the adapter off is a mofo. Did you wash it first...

`How do you know the compressor wheel and injectors need replacement?

WOT works faster, yes you should fill the system with the lift pump primer, but no need to crack lines.

Bosch P/MW/A pumps do not need bleeding, they will prime just fine w/o cracking lines, removing plugs, etc. Put the throttle off idle and crank it.

And for the helluv it, the FSOV measurements,

It could just be idling really low, that could be why it was a no start and why it shakes now, idle should be 650-750 RPM. There is a lever behind that the plate your throttle linkage bolts to. There is an acorn headed bolt that contacts a tab on that lever, this is low idle adjustment. It is...

Just a word of advice, stay away from red, orange ELC. Those types, dex cool, the stuff in the video, Cat ELC and a host of others will ruin the o-rings in the older systems. O-rings like in the oil cooler, the water rail jumpers and seals, etc. The rubber used in these old parts weren't...

Could be steering component too

"Whiskey + and + Coke"....like that? I need to go search the cabinet for that combo!

No dings, this is just a stumper. It is sort of common, seen MW and P pumps fail quite a bit. Mostly due to h20, some from governor parts flinging thru the hsg and some just a plain old no start. He just needs to check pressures to verify/confirm pump issue.

What? The heat at that part of the pipe when driving ain't enough to soften the rubber to cup. IF it got that hot, there would be a tire failure. ****, the exhaust on new trucks id 1000 degrees + at the outlet of the pipe. That means that every truck running around, actually WORKING would be...

15 to lite. 25 is good, 30 is better. The lift pump is capable of 70 psi.

There is fuel to the pump, but he has not yet verified the pressures. If the WOT won't make it fire, the pressure check is a must.

No, well, if you want to, it's your stuff. Please explain how the J pipe causes cupping? Cupping can be caused by alignment issues, over/under inflation, one side braking harder than the other, shock issue or just turning. These pigs are heavy over the front, more so if it is a winch truck.

OK, here's something that I remember. When the FSOV shuts off, the rack returns to the zero delivery position, which is toward the governor portion of the pump. This puts a slot in line with another slot that shunts the fuel back into the gallery, IIRC, the rack is helped to be held at zero...

Cut one open, then cut open a FG filter. Wix, Baldwin have very poor media and the points the media is adhered to the ends are easily compromised if there is a restriction through the media. I have seen a fleet of busses, not 2 or 3 or 10, but a fleet of 400 fail engines due to baldwin filters...

Didn't look to see where the link went. Not broken, it just went to the x ref page. Type in any filter number and get a fleetguard filter number and it's spec.

It's an MW with an RQVK governor. The reason I asked about lines off and for a pic is that what you describe can be caused by the return check valve being installed into the inlet port...yup, it happens, they are the same size fittings. Looks like yours is good. If there is zero delivery, the...

The engine mounted filter that comes with the engine is fine. Any smaller micron rating and you will be changing filters constantly. IMHO, stay away from Baldwin, Wix filters. Stick with Fleetguard or Fleetrite. You guys are thinking WAY too hard on filters. The C has used the same filter...

Find a remote filter head with a 1-14 thread and put one of these on.... https://catalog.cumminsfiltration.com/catalog/partsearch.do?&reqCmd=PartInformation&partNumber=FS1212&PartType=Fuel/Water Sep Spin-On&Part=-&criteria=part&_locale=en