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Well I am guessing the permatex intent was for insulation and not weather proofing, to keep some knuckle dragger from shorting that very large unfused circuit to ground fed by a monster battery and burning up a truck:)
The aux start relay on the frame is the old school way of dealing with the...
Yea I think it was 38-40oz it works, but I am not sure it lasts. Recall one noteable video where they pulled a tire and there was only a fraction of the volume left that had been initially installed. And that was on a system without CTIS breathing Into he tires every 15 minutes. So YMMV. It...
Anywhere in that range is fine. A psi more or less doesn’t significantly change your boiling point, and if you are that close to the edge you probably have other issues you should address:)
Yea they took the fan control solenoid I researched($26) and did a youtube video on, and they added...
Yea thats the rub with salt water. You can spin it out in a centrifuge/purifier, did this daily on the last ship I was on. The normal way for us common folk is to let it settle and separate as much that way as possible, which is basically what a centrifuge does only faster(a little heat helps...
Where exactly did you get fluid leaking from on the winch? There is a little relief valve above the winch motor…
of course the planetary gear inside has some form of lube in it, what exactly, I am not sure. I am thinking the only way to get something out of the winch is to put something into...
Yep get the water out of the trans. It will kill the clutch packs...
NDT has a good thought, check the remote start sw in the passenger wheel well. If it is shorted it will crank as soon as you hit the ign sw... your thinking is right if it were a short in start relay, aux start or start...
I think that test was with ign switch on, so it was loaded...
The extension of this test is to pull full system design load thru the circuit. In a properly wired world you should see no more than 3% drop in voltage + the diode volt drop imposed by the polarity box/LBCD...
This test needs to be done with load applied. Resistance resists current flow, not voltage, so without current flow you can still see full voltage throughout the circuit. Like a garden hose with kinks in it, you will have full pressure at the nozzle at the end of the hose, until you open the...
LBCD stands for Load & Battery Control Device.
Adding the LBCD was not when they were complete Doofuses. That came much earlier when they paired a 240AH battery bank with a 100A total current dual volt alternator. That was the root problem, the LBCD was their bandaid to keep the inevitable...
The polarity box itself is just diodes potted to a heat-sync. They are pretty resilient and waterproof. They are after all mounted out in the weather. Their weak link appears to be their connection lugs. They get dirty and corroded.
Now how the LBCD circuitry would fare is another story. The...
Yep, goes from battery by cable to the manual disconnect. From there it has jumper straps to the disconnect relays, then cables from the relays to the LBCD.
You should be able to disconnect the cables coming out of the disconnect relay(closest to frame) and pull them out a bit to connect to...
Yea they do stick with you.
Have you load tested the batteries? I would pick the best two and drop to just 2, at least for testing. Batteries in parallel can make troubleshooting difficult as a good battery can mask a bad one. If you had a bad cell in a battery it would have trouble...
No. 2 batteries in parallel basically become one larger battery, so you only need ONE balancer between the outer pair/0-12 “battery” and the inner pair that forms the 12-24 “battery.
Yea you will pull a little more than that @24 with the heater blower, A/C and wipers on, but not all that much more. That is quite a bit less than my guesstimate…
You have LED lights? That 14V load seems low for all the lights on. I totaled them up one time With incandescents the total...