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In this case those diodes protect the control transisiors in that control module at the end. Those are not traditional relays if I understand the theory of that module. They are bi state relays, so they receive a current pulse from the controller to either open or close and will then rest in...

I don’t know how effective an external one would be unless you can block that big gap between radiator and intercooler at the bottom. I was thinking about one in 3 or 4 parts with some perimeter components permanently installed. of course this would be easier if they didn’t put the gladhands...

While you are doing connections, do the starter as well. Your main ground goes from the battery to the terminal on the front of the starter motor. From there you will find a ground strap that connects the battery ground to the drivers frame. That is your main chassis ground. When you were...

Oh great pics! Mine had a really long bug leg or a thick horse hair in it when I got my truck. Was one of the first things I had to fix to get the primer working… That flapper is the normal entrance pathway into the filter for fuel when the engine is running. The lift pump moves a pretty...

It actually says it around the ring on the primer. Open drain and pump bulb to discharge water… ideally you should open the drain and nothing should happen Until you pump the bulb. if you open the drain and it sucks air back in, the flapper bypass valve is leaking and fuel is running back...

Did you ever bypass AND measure voltages? If the disconnect is bypassed, whether it clicks or not makes no difference. I would bypass the disconnect module, and both the ignition relays at the same time. Things may start clicking but that is just a symptom of voltage loss. Start at the...

With all diesels I start with the basics first. Fuel is life… What does the primer bulb feel like? If the system is full of fuel like it should be, the primer should be firm from the start as you should be hydraulically pushing against the pressure regulator at the far end of the system from...

Any luck? What I think you are experiencing is the same thing that hapoens when you kink a garden hose. You will have full pressure(voltage) all the way to the nozzle at the end of the hose, untill you open the nozzle. Then the pressure at the nozzle drops off drastically as you try and flow...

The vehicle speed sensor is in the transfer case. That sensor is processed thru the transmission control unit which then delivers it to the speedometer and CTIS. I suspect that as mentioned, your CTIS is programmed for a different military vehicle with a different pulse per mile rate than...

The fact it is making the normal 14v output tells me the regulator is at least partially working, driving the SCRs properly to maintain that voltage.

Sealant around the airfitting? You could apply some localized heat.

Yep, sounds like the voltage regulator On top of the alternator housing. You can confirm this If you unplug the regulator and start the truck. the alternator should go to no power output Which will confirm the field is not shorted to ground inside the alternator chassis. This alt feeds 28V to...

The bands on the two small wires on the 24v relay(K1) should be labeled TL 505 & 506. The bands on the small 12V ign relay(K2) wires ahould be TL 168 and maybe TL 169(not labeled on the schematic I have). TL 505 and 168 should be 24V from CB45 via the battery sw and ign switch. TL,506 and 169...

With the batt disconnect relay and the 12 and 24 batt to ign points jumpered up in the power panel, what voltage are you measuring for 12 and 24 at the power panel? Regardless of whats clicking, With those 3 relays bypassed with jumpers, you should have steady power between batteries and the...

Ok was going to say bypass the disconnect relay if it was clicking, but since you have done it already and the ignition relays are still clicking, then the issue must be the supply power feeding the ignition relays. Ig you jumper from the BATT to the IGN terminals in the power panel, that will...

Those are the ignition relays, K1 and K2. They connect 12v batt to 12v ign, and 24v batt to 24v ign when you turn on the ignition switch. Those relays shouldn’t have any connection to the battery disconnect relays. battery 24 goes thru CB45 thru half of the battery disconnect sw under the...

What exactly is clicking? Which relays? Did the power at the 12 and 24 batt bolts in the power panel drop during the clicking? i am trying to get an idea where to tell you to bypass, so you can stop the clicking and do a proper load test to find where your voltage is dropping off Under load.

So this starts its cycling when you push the start button?

Just got a chance to look at your pics. Thats a weird way to measure voltages. The black lead should be connected to chassis ground. Then one of those pathways should read 12v and the other 24v. The voltage should disappear beyond any open disconnect sw or relay. Measuring at the various...

Yep, i suspect NDT is correct. a bad connection between that disconnect relay and the power panel in the dash. When you pull current thru a bad connection, like a kink in a garden hose, the resistance causes a voltage drop. This only happens under load, so voltage isn’t considered good until...