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I have done afew vids on the lmtv here is a link to the fuel system overview vid. I have another on how to test the primer pump and a breakdown of the old style fan hub and a few others. The only difference between the old and new style fan clutch is the use of a rubber friction disc on the old...

Also check the excavation and road constriction companies. Brought mine home(120 mi?) on a trailer behind a local owner/operator dump truck for not very much. Know someone else in my area that brought one home with a road construction company that had a truck coming up this way empty to pick...

Yep, no K11, no start…

Yellow is low voltage. Green is normal and red is high voltage… time to break out the voltmeter…

What NDT said. The TCU powers K26 when in neutral. K26 powers K11 which provides the power to the starter switches… 15 PSI of oil pressure de-energizes K11 disabling the starter and putting the alternator online… so does taking the trans out of neutral…

Fan should kick on at 205F.

Well if the fording sw controls them and the engine fan works normally when driving I suspect your aux fan control is working normally. If you are not doing any more work than a 4X4 could, then the thermal diverter really isn’t even sending any trans fluid to that cooler and all the heat is...

Or you could start the engine, get out of the truck and see if the aux fan is still on…:) Another way to test it is turn on the ignition, and when the aux fan starts up, turn on the fording switch and see if that stops it. The fording sw provides power to the aux fan relay and the engine fan...

So if your engine fan is not locked up when you turn on the ignition, then the aux fan relay or circuit may have an issue. Like the fan solenoid, de-energized = fan on. This on a 3126? If i recall correctly the ECU may engage it untill the engine starts... wull have to look that up...

The aux trans fan runs in parallel with the engine fan...

And since it locked up so readily, you probably have a bad 2way check valve. with full air, have someone step on the brake pedal while you observe how much air is leaking out the front blue service glad-hand. That lost air is not going toward braking and is depleting your braking air supply...

I highly doubt that, and I don’t think it was done to warm the trans. A diesel at idle doesn’t put all that much heat into the cooling system. That is one of the reasons it is difficult to get an engine to warm just by itself. If heating a transmission is your goal, there are far more...

You could use a bypass type thermostat to automate the bypass mixing, but it would add restriction to the system. A full diameter bypass would not, and you could be sure it is all the way open when you dont need it... it would be easy enough to control from the cab with a cable...

There of course is also a plumbing option. You put a T in the upper radiator pipe and a pipe section across and down to a 3way bypass valve in the lower radiator line. The valve would control the percentage of water allowed to pass thru the radiator/forced to bypass the radiator...

Well you would need to provide that gap at the top and perhaps some guide rails along the front side edges of the radiator. I think I woukd want a way to tune it vis having a bunch of different covers. Perhaps a roll-up cover at the bottom that you pull up in front of the radiator along...

Yea that sounds about right for a 3116. It basically sends all the engine heat to the transmission. Below about 65F outside air temp, Untill the transmission warms and starts generating heat, the engine wont even get warm enough to open the thermostat. You can see thw cold weather radiator...

Most diesels are happiest approaching 200F. Maintaining a temp above the thermostat opening point(178F) is good as it means it is controlling temp with a steady coolant flow thru the radiator. Thats a good thing. That being said The way they plumbed the 3116 makes it notoriously cold...

At those temps, Over the grill or a smaller panel slid up just in front of the intercooler. You will want something you can “tune”, like the snapped on covers with zippered panels you see on semi trucks in winter. Ideally you want to limit air cooling capacity to the point where the thermostat...

It depends on what you expect it to do when you switch the valve to "vent"? If you expect it to deflate the tires, then no. You need at least 5-6 psi on the system to hold the wheel valves open. If you expect it to vent and close wheel valves, then yes providing it can flow enough air fast...

The thermostat doesn’t know what temperature it is outside And it being at the end of the hot side, it will repeatedly close the barn door after the horse has escaped. Repeated heat and cooling cycles from 180F to possibly below freezing is not conducive to long engine life. Diesels do best...