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1850 needs to go to ground side of the batteries and wire 1851 is the LBCD battery 24 sense and trickle charge line. I don’t think it will drain anything, but It probably should go on the disconnect side of the 24v manual disconnect sw as shown in the drawing just to insure the batts are...

Could be condensation. Put a space heater in the cab and get the inside above the dew point and see if it stops raining inside:)

Its all wheel drive. If the front driveshaft is removed all the torque will escape there. And the truck will not move. You can lock the center differential by entering mode and you can drive this way, but you are limited to 5th gear…

You need to get it up to op temp so the thermostat opens. This will push the trapped air in the upper pipe on into the raditor where it can find its way up to the expansion tank… keep track of the sight glass thru a couple of heat cycles in case you need to make up the level when the air purges…

I am not coming across a dual PPD, I thought I had seen one, sorry. It is just a diode in a heatsync. For a single you could use any simple diode battery isolator(One input feeds 2 batteries via diodes). you would just not use one of the outputs, and always have a spare available. Deka...

Are they AGMs or wet cells? A pair of 6T wet cells @120AH, are a much better match for the alt. If they are wet cells, then dropping to a pair and a standard PPD would work fine. Because of the AGMs power requirements, Anything larger than a pair of group 24s are too large in AGM IMO. It...

Well in just the few years I have been in this hobby, I have seen a lot of people diagnose to failed ECUs on 3126s. More so than any other EFI system I have ever worked with. HEUI systems are fantastic genius level diesel tech, but I believe the 3126 was one of Cats first entries into EFI and...

Well there are some variables to consider. First off what batteries are you running? The LBCD is a dual polarity protection device first. Designed to make battery connection/work a little more soldier proof. If you are confident in your ability to disconnect and reconnect batteries...

I believe it is post count…

I suspected as much, and that makes perfect sense, but have no observation to support it:)

A Scangauge D may also read the 3126 fault codes off the J1939 databus, as well as the engine data(hp, fuel consumption, temps ect). The RV community who use the 3126 have used them. I have one for OBD scangauge 2 I have used for years. It is cool because it is user programmable. I was...

Wouldn't even need a weatherproof box. Cut the connector at the tank and Install the 90-120PSI air compressor sw at the normal location at the tank and install new connections on the end of the wiring harness and weatherproof them to the switch. Splice the relay into the CTIS wiring harness...

Yea its not OBD2… These use commercial automotive hardware and software to talk to the systems on the 3126/C7 trucks, or something like a prolink or the Allison software on a laptop with a communications interface to talk to the trans on the older 3116 trucks…

Thats a tough one. Like the alternators, It is a pretty specific component, and the bandits know it. Thats why I like to throw out cost effective alternatives whenever I can:) The CTIS sw closes at 117 and doesn’t open again until 89PSI. But there are inexpensive off the shelf 90-120 PSI air...

Cool!

The switch is on the top 2way checkvalve under the drivers floor. The switch is easiest accessed behind the grill on the drivers side. 66PSI Haldex normally closed brake switch…

Oh, if it has the C7 engine then you have what is known as an A1R… you did say it was a 2005? I should have asked… Yes, different control circuit, but still a lot in common with the older A1 circuit. I believe it uses a module associated with the MMDC(gauge controller) to deliver the oil...

When analizing a circuit you need to decide if it is bad, or if it is being told to do its job improperly(garbage in = garbage out). If you find the short/path to ground on pin 85 of K11 is from that latch circuit, I would also confirm that there is NO voltage on the source/sensing side of...

Ok, now I remember that circuit. On the A1 they simplified things a little by combining the starter lockout and alternator excite function onto K11. When K11 is energized, the starter is enabled, the alternator is disabled. When K11 de-energizes above 15PSI oil pressure, the starter gets...

It will be between oil sw and K11. One side of the K11 coil gets power from the neutral relay, the other side goes to ground thru the oil pressure sw like the dash light does. When you go over 15PSI oil pressure that sw opens turning off the dash light and breaking the circuit to K11...