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K11 deenergized contacts provides the enable power to the regulator, so it will NOT charge without it in place. It probably also wont allow the LBCD to get an RPM signal from the reg to illuminate the No charge light if that is all you are using to gauge if it is charging or not...
I think...
Well if you disconnected the wire from the rear reg terminal and that didnt fix the overvolt, and your alt isnt making any voltage with the regulator disconnected completely, you probably only need a regulator...
There is a troubleshooting tree in the neihoff manual that will help you confirm this.
Yes it vents out the bottom. It is a remote pressure regulator it matches the outlet port pressures to the input pressure by either passing input to output, or venting output out that bottom vent.
Your problem sounds like your front gladhands are capped? They must be vented. 2ways take in...
Thats a weird looking 2way. Where exactly was it located? Whats on the bottom side? On an LMTV the closest(and only) 2ways to the bumper are located in behind the drivers step up under the drivers floor. 3 in a row, to interface the front glad-hands to the park, primary and secondary brake...
Thats kind of surprising, it is usually the 12v batts that are toast as the A0 has a 12v vampire and because of the lighting loads, the 12v side has trouble fully recharging with the undersized alternator.
4 wet cell 6T batts is way too much for the 100A dual volt alt. Anything AGM even more...
The battery connected to ground on its neg terminal is the 0-12 battery. The jumper from its + terminal to the neg terminal of the 12-24 battery(series jumper) is where you connect the 12v line. It can connect to either end of the series jumper(+ terminal on 0-12 or neg terminal on 12-24 batt)...
Where is the 12v lead hooked now? If you have four group 31s installed like the original 6T batteries. I suspect all 4 batteries are tied together (+-+-) in the middle. That is where 12 is connected. Ground is typically furthest from the frame. 12 is where the outer 0-12 batt + terminal...
Yes on the earlier A1, it has a temp sensor to limit it above a certain temp. Not sure where it is located on the 3126. On my A0 it was a coolant sensor and opened the circuit above about 35F. Have seen conflicting temp ratings for the switch. If it is going clunk when you cycle the switch...
Group 31 is typically between 900 and 950 CCA(0F) and are over 1100 at 32F and above. ~100AH@20hr rated capacity.
My 3116 pulls a brief peak of 290A and a sustained 157A while cranking. That was engine cold at about 60F. Cold thick oil would bump this up a little. Heat is your friend…...
In the manual there is a hinging test that uses a dial indicator and magnetic base at a particular location on one side and reaches across to measure the movement at a specific spot on the other side while installed. You zero the dial then push up on the shaft and measure the displacement. It...
But when combined with the truck loads, still too much load/hard on the alternator if they get behind. A pair of 31’s is what Cat specced for the equipment that use these engines…
Well the brake lights you can simply hardwire. They dont actually get powered till you step on the pedal. They are always hot on most vehicles.
the ignition switch actually switches a ground path to energize the ignition relays. You will have to pickoff the park/TS power from the output of the...
Hopefully nothing is getting drained, The engine bell housing shouldn't have anything in it. You put the plug in the hole if you expect to go into water. The housing itself is not particularly easy to keep sealed, so they made it easy to drain/leave open with a handy place to store the plug…
There is a drain plug back there on the bottom of the bell housing on a cover plate. It also has a threaded hole to store the drain plug when removed. Is that plug hole open?