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I wasn’t planning on using any:) You don’t typically use them with synthetics, you use a simple fairlead with a rounded edge. The only place I am looking at a roller is fairly close to the winch where I re-direct the line from perpendicular to the winch spool, to parallel with the frame. This...
Yea 12mm Synthetic is rated over 30k break strength, just fine for a 20k winch. And for all the reasons mentioned above, it is a good mix IMO for a rec application.
As for a Foers winch install, you can order a bare winch then make up a line that encompasses the added length. Or get one...
I should add, The mounting scheme for the sherpa actually takes into account its capability to deliver so much force. To reduce shear strain on the bolts, it can be configured for a “downward” pull towards the main hardware. So it doesn't really matter if it spools off the top or the bottom...
Yes I was looking at the Sherpa. Mounted gearbox in, to get it as close to the frame as possible. Then it will be angled toward the rear so the spool points at an intermediary fairlead that will get the rope right in alongside the frame for its run to the rear. Then around a snatchblock which...
Yea and sometimes stuff just happens:) I can also say I have probably used a winch to pull someone else as often as I have used it to pull my own vehicle…
Yea but can you do this with the front buried in a ditch and the pouring rain? Because in my experience, that is when you will need it on the other end of the truck…
Because of the weights and structure involved with a 20K winch, that was why I am looking at making a Foers config work. With a...
Yea, it is just I have had to schlep receiver mounted winches thru all kinds of crap to get them where I need to pull from, and yes, even dig out the receiver to even get the winch into the receptical. I was seeking to avoid that, with a winch and mount plate capable of moving 20K worth of...
Yea a Foers vector winch setup was what I was considering, with the electric winch mounted where the hydraulic winch would go. there are already cable passages fore/aft on that side of the chassis, and I don’t see a big problem with fabricating a mount that could withstand 20K of pull. The oem...
I keep coming back to putting mine where the hydraulic would go or in behind the battery box, rigged for a front or rear pull. Much shorter power runs that way…
Yea I recall the running light pattern being discussed, but don’t recall where as it wasn’t relevant to anything I was doing specifically(too many tech assists and limited storage capacity:)).
Never heard the cutoff relay assy called the DRIC before. At any rate it sounds like you have a bad connection associated with the relay assy if you are seeing volt drop at the LBCD As that is the next stop after those cutoff relays back by the battery box.
The aux fans running are an...
Nothing like reviving an old thread:) I am not familliar with the acronym “DRIC” What/where is that?
Everything starts at the batteries. What are the voltages at all 4, both switched off and with ignition switch on? And when I say voltage, I am wanting to know the decimal. A charged...
The beauty of 24 is for given ammount of work, the cables can be significantly smaller than those needed for that much work at 12V.
Yea 24 will be a little harder on the motor windings and brushes, and if you really load it up, well you have more potential than those components can handle…...
I also use a tool of my own design I call a “wubbler” made from an old screwdriver. The string around the groove will mostly(with appropriate pressure applied from the outside) get the lip of the seal up and over the opening edge, but occasionally it does not work or the string slips past the...
Or it will cost you and 1-2 other people many hours to remove and install the windshield and clean up the mess… Yes you can roll the inner seal lip out over the lip of the opening without damaging it, but this requires constant pressure outward on the glass(first extra person) and constant...