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The secret of traction control is in NOT braking the wheel to a stop, only applying enough additional drag to the slipping wheel with a brake so that the diff thinks it has two wheels with traction and sends more torque to the wheel that actually has some. I do this with my tractor on occasion...
I think they may, they appear to use the same reservoir/filter assembly, and the A0 24P shows P/N 7632 141 102, but part target crosses that back to the same NSN that General disorder listed above. Also crosses to a Fram CH803APL.
Yea, it’s called a chain…:)
The problem with synthetics is once you stressed it to breaking point, you stressed every fiber in that line to the same point, so it probably will break a lot easier next time. Just like in climbing, once y9u fallinto a line or a harness, it gets decommissioned…...
Where were those voltages measured at? If at the batteries, thats not bad, but I would also compare with voltages directly at the alternator terminals. That is where the regulator regulates the voltage to. They put a lot of connections on these trucks When they incorporated the polarity...
The buzzer is probably the low air alarm right in front of the steering column.
Remove the cover to the power panel. You have 3 test points on the left. What voltage do you see at the 12 and 24v test points measured to the ground test point?
What does the voltage at the test points do...
There are 2 neg leads attached to the battery. One goes to the nato port, the other goes to the starter negative. It is the one that goes toward the starter that you want to interrupt. I don’t know the specs on that switch you showed. Whatever switch you choose it needs to be able to handle...
The simplest way is to add a high current switch on that ground lead. This will stop the truck from drawing any current(and kill that 12v vampire). It will NOT however remove the difference in potential between 12 and 24V, so you can still run into issues when working on the truck electrical...
What Mullaney said! I start with my ears, then my hands, then bubble mix. I would add check the glad-hands and normal vents(right under heater behind grill, bottom of relays and qr valve). Also don't forget the park and trailer plumbing in the dash. The seals on the push-pull control on the...
They may not be easy to kill, but they do appear to have a fairly high failure rate:)
IRT your battery voltages, they are OK, but they also illustrate one of the biggest issues with the LMTV. Depending on the battery type those resting voltages indicate a range of 70-85% state of charge. You...
And both those symptoms point toward the ECU connection on the side of the engine… the service brake switch sends a signal to the ECU on the side of the engine, which puts that information out onto the data bus(Not sure if the trans uses brake info though). The high idle command switch feeds...
Yes the LMTV gauges are weird. In the case of the tach sensor used by the 3116 though, it probably would not matter as the sensor is self powered/generates the signal pulses internally.
You would have to find 12v to power a 12v gauge. Not sure what the M35 uses for gauge power. The A0 does...
You said that fault was for comms between transmission and engine. Have you checked the connections at the engine control unit? Is the inline filter module still installed at the ECU?
I need to re-do the wiring diagram. It is pretty simple, 3switches, some diodes, a relay and a pressure gauge. I was looking at making the latch circuit with a SCR vis a relay.
I drew out a diagram for a enclosure that bolted where the original controller went, and connected re-using the...
Yea the whole unit is potted horribly, no internal box access. I couldn’t remember if the keyboard had any access. I gutted my dead one to make my first manual controller prottype.