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That looks like an MRAP JERRV C7 engine not LMTV. I dont think that big alternator will clear the cab hump. I do have those bracket kits though.

You need the Y cable to access that ctis control. The Y cable should be part of the msd V3 connection kit.

Disconnect and tape off both wires going to the alternator regulator. Take the positive lead from the fuel solenoid (outer usually but confirm with meter) and bring it around the front of the engine and connect to the +24 volt terminal on the regulator. Do not connect anything to the terminal...

The trucks were not intended to be operated at high speed. You dont want to crash at 70mph in one of these trucks. It wouldnt be pretty. There are plenty of good civilian uses for the truck. Highway hauling is not one of them.

The abs has an inversion valve. Not sure if that would cause your symptoms though. If you had holes in your service brake diaphragms when you stepped on the brake it would cause a fast air loss.

At night use a wall or garage door. The military headlights have easy adjusters.

Been thinking. On the alternator regulator are 2 terminals. One is the 24 volt excite/regulation lead. It divides the 24volt to regulate the 12 volt output. The second lead is an AC (yup alternating current) output generated by the alternator. Intended to drive a tach or other small AC...

Rears are spring brakes air keeps them off the treadle takes the air away when pressed. So they really can't just not work. Unless air is somehow leaking thru the treadle valve and the flow does not stop when you step on the pedal. Chances of mechanical brake failure of 4 separate spring brakes...

Unless your brakes are caged there should never be a situation where you step on the brakes and the truck does not want to stop. The treadle should be firm with or without air in the system. Spongy is bad.

Does the treadle valve feel spongy or different than normal. M939 treadle should be really firm.

Everything cat is expensive I didn't want to get into that motor for any more money. if it was a simple fix like new o rings on an injector I would probably attempt it but it's not my area of expertise.

I think it ended up being the oil cooler.

Looks like coolant came up around an injector. I believe there are coolant paths around the injectors and o rings to keep it in place. This is info I found searching the net though. I don't know about cat motors.

Still runs. Minus a cylinder though. And it was a recent military reman motor. I have no experience with cat internals. No sleeves no good. If it was a Cummins I would pull the head and get into it.

Yup looks like LAV

There are a lot of 3116s in civ use. They get mixed reviews on the net. I read a lot of the RV forums with 3116 discussions and there are a lot out there with several hundred thousand miles on them still going strong. The 6x6 trucks have a 290hp 3116. This is top of the power range for that...

It is my understanding that on first gen trucks you can only access the ctis controller with the Y cable. Maybe on the newer A1 C7 trucks with the computer bus you can get in thru the main diag port. The port on the right of the column is trans only.

Do you have the Y cable to access the CTIS controller? You can download the software from Dana. If you have the Y cable, whats the part number or NSN I have been trying to get my hands on one of those for a while. I dont believe the CTIS controller can be accessed any other way.

If you didnt change anything with the trans I dont see the ecm going bad, The Allison stuff is reliable. The civilian Allison techs I have spoken with have all said the only issues are physical wear on the keypads from use and wiring harness problems. You can try cleaning the connections. Maybe...

Torque is split 30 front 70 rear in normal driving mode. The front and rear driveshaft speed can vary slightly with cornering and such. In mode the center diff is locked, splitting power 50/50 and forcing both driveshafts to turn at the same speed.