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If the tires are leaking down, it is most likely a wheel valve. You can confirm this with a wrench and a rubber glove. Disconnect the banjo bolt and put a rubber glove over the fitting and tape it in place over the fitting on the end of the hose… if it inflates, the wheel valve is leaking...

Which is why I buy pretty good tools…

Yep, thats its purpose. It is supposed to be able to leak past to self release once the load is removed. Perhaps that bypass clogs over time…

Correct, that valve should only vent air when you release the pedal. Take the treadle valve apart and clean it. If it still leaks, install a parts/rebuild kit. The vent line actually attaches to a T before that port thru the floor. The park and trailer control valves also vent out thru that...

Watch out for the black helicopters:)

Here is another video for you…

If it wiped camshaft bearings and that was effecting power production, it would probably effect it at idle as well. It doesn’t sound like you have much time running this engine, serious bearing issues would show in the oil pressure response, especially when it warms up. Basically the oil...

Too much running without oil will kill the engine, but the kind of damage that would cause HP loss would also leade to a lot of blowby out the cc vent and a lot of smoke in the exhaust, so hopefully that did not happen to you, and it is something else. Fuel = power, are you maybe sucking air...

Yea I don’t know that I would want to hang any more weight out on the left side of the timing gearcase…

Which means you will soon see them for sale at an unnamed source for $110 ea + shipping…

BT3 & BT4 are the 12V batteries in parallel(voltage is referenced to ground). If your replacing batteries, I would highly recommend you drop to 2 batteries, especially if they are 6TL’s, and stay away from the AGMs… The 4 battery 6tl bank was gross milspec overkill and a terrible match for...

There is no flapper/foot valve in the tank…

Well if you don't have it your 12v will consist of a single battery as you only have one 12v lead exiting the battery box. Without that jumper you can only connect that single lead to a single battery. With the struggle to keep the 12v side fully charged, this might not be a bad thing, will...

I believe that dash 12v switch allows you to measure the 12V side of the electrical power system. I suspect it is momentary and when released monitors the 24v side of the system Like the 24v gauge does in the A0. Looking at the diagram which appears to be drawn incorrectly, I believe that is...

The air dryer purges every time the compressor reaches full pressure and unloads. So the more air you use the more often it purges. The air compressor cycles on around 105 PSI and should cycle off around 125 PSI. It senses the wet tank pressure to do this. If the front and rear brake...

Looks like it sets where the air pipes run up to the intercooler…

Cool! I had a mouse nest under the instrument panel. They used the drivers seat cover to make the nest but didn’t touch the wiring… that mess looks like outside material so hopefully yours is the same. Lots of space inside the entire dash for them to make a mess though…

There is a complete exploded view of the winch in the 24P manual. It looks like a multi-layer motorcycle clutch. The lever rotates a cam against a plate that compresses the discs. The first thing I would check is if the cam is rotating With the lever, the two are pinned together. If it is...

The pac-brake solenoid gets its power from different sources for the two different modes. In warmup it originates at CB77 via the trans neutral relay K26 and the brake/warmup switch Then on to the solenoid and ground. In brake/retard mode the solenoid power originates at the ECU And is...

Under the passenger dash you will find the wtecIII controller. It has 3 plugs on it. They should have metal tags/bands around the wire bundle on them identifying them. On the III the keypad is just that, a pushbutton user interface. You shouldn’t have to remove the wheel, just loosen the...