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Yep, this isn’t for safety, it is for unloading the batteries as it will disable the 12 and 24v circuits. For safety you need to also lift the 12V or 24V leads…

Yea if you keep a maintainer on it you will be in a much better situation And will keep the alt from having to run at an overload for long durations Trying to top off the batteries. The vampire is only about 20MA on my truck. I have a 15w panel and a buck converter set to deliver a 13.2v float...

I apologize, I messed that up. To clear the codes, press both arrows to enter diagnostic mode. Then press and hold the MODE button. After 3 seconds the controller will beep once indicating the active faults have been cleared. If you continue to hold the button at about 10 seconds the...

Well the AGM’s make the alternator overload situation even worse. Standard wet lead acids need about 25% of the AH capacity in amps to meet the charge demands of the batteries. Four 6T batts is a 240AH bank. That is 60A neededout of the alt. In the case of the 12v side, that is about all you...

So turning on the power and holding the up and down arrows till the controller beeps twice(10 seconds or so) doesn’t clear the codes?

I wouldn’t swap anything yet. You need to check compatibility before you do that with trans parts anyway as Alison made continual upgrades and version changes, so you need to confirm the other controller will work with this trans. There is a whole table on compatibility in the manual… The two...

Those two terminals on the regulator Are not voltage test points… The forward terminal, closest to the pully is the energize input terminal. Applying 24v here enables the alternator to start outputting power. That power comes from the de-energized contacts of relay K11 which along with...

Yea, not understanding? Are you not getting to pressure on the gauges? or you simply cannot release the park brakes? Not reaching pressure could be a few things, like the purge valve on the dryer is stuck open or the governor is stuck. as mentioned if you have air but the parks brakes wont...

There is a vampire load on the 0-12v side of these trucks, so the 11.1v(25% charged?) there doesn’t surprise me. That leaves 12.7 on the 24v side which isn’t terrible(about 90% charged). 11.6Vrunning isn’t good on the 12v side but the total you gave indicates the 12-24 side is seeing 15.5V...

Sounds like you did it just fine. Well 1312 and 1313 are low voltage codes… 2423 is sump oil temp hot 3323 is sump oil temp sensor failed high 2214 is engine speed reasonableness test so as mentioned, voltage issues will cause troubles and those first two codes indicate you have had that...

Any codes stored? Press up and down arrow at the same time to enter diagnostic mode. The display will flash D1 then two sets of numbers(write these down) also note if the mode light is lit(indicates a current fault). There are 5 code storage locations(D1-D5). Press the mode button to step...

Block heater, 1500W… Zero start 3500081…

Here is a quick test before you arc weld something, if you are ever in doubt as to what is going to happen when you connect that last wire/complete the circuit. Connect a volt meter in place of the last wire you are going to connect in the circuit. You must have a difference in...

I think he mis-understood your drawing, the connection points look OK for adding the 3rd in parallel with the 0-12v service battery. Maybe he thinks those lines are connected instead of just drawn over each other… batteries often mess people up, particularly series and parallel. Everything...

Tap into the line between the panel and the house controller. You want raw DC to feed the small controller to the 3rd battery the same as it feeds the house system. Dc to dc converters work best when there is a voltage difference so you dont want to use the output of the house converter which...

The supply power for the converter/charger comes from your raw panel output(between panel and existing house solar controller). The output of the converter charger connects to the 3rd battery. Only 10A, no 2/0 cable anywhere in this part. yes you could tie the 3rd battery to the 12v side in...

Well there are lots of dc-dc supplies to choose from, for a standalone battery this size that will see service i would want at least 10A. Here are some amazon search results, you want an adjustable output voltage so you can set an appropriate float voltsge...

You might be able to do that, add the 3rd 6tl to the house system. What kinda house batteries are you running? Back to the mismatch battery thing, it could, if too large a difference in capacity/design from the house batts, could effect the overall balance and charging of your house system…...

4 batteries were chosen to meet a particular milspec requirement like being able to set for a month on the Siberian step in wintertime and still be able to crank the engine long enough to start it with no supplemental heat. Un fortunately the person designing the electrical system wasn’t in on...

Why dont you just take the two best of the three 6TL’s that have 12.98 at rest and install just them? A pair of 6tl’s is way more than the engine/starter needs… They will charge faster and maintain a higher state of charge and your alternator will not be working as hard…