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Well the instructions don’t say anything about having to pull any pins to get the cable off of the guide roller so you can roll the end around the drum to the guide on the other side. this pic seems to include all the instructions they give for this part of the process… does the 1/2” rod under...

You would need a different PCU or another set of intermediary solenoid valves to divide up the system into front and rear sections…

Where are these pins you are talking about? At the fairlead?

Yea they all use the same PCU and sensor…. Now wether they assigned different wiring for that at the controller end of the harness may be an issue. They do have different dash harnesses in the different trucks…

When I say off line mine stopped generating any 12 or 24v power… yes the 12v is part of the overall 24v. The 12 is tapped off to the output thru the SCRs. Since you have the overall 24, the 12 windings are obviously OK. But the SCRs could be bad or the reg isn’t firing them. The fact that...

There is an allen head plug on top of the hand pump and you can add oil to its reservoir directly. then both selectors need to be set to the correct positions of course…

You should get a check light from the ECU to indicate it is Powered/booting up. they also added a power filter down by the ECU these usually get bypassed and there is probably a reason for that. the hand pump doesn't even work?

If your batteries are OK it shouldn't make a difference. I also cannot say for certain wether it would even work. I did something similar at one time to attempt to measure individual 12and24 loads. The alt would not stay online, and would only pulse, like it was looking for/needed the 12-24v...

An SCR is a switchable Diode. No trigger, nothing flows, trigger applied, current flows in one direction like a diode, so they rectify the 12v output, just like the diodes on the 24V output. The alt and batteries both connect to the battery terminal on the polarity box it doesn’t pass thru it...

The regulator monitors 24v and regulates the field to maintain that output. the 12and 24v windings(two 12v windings) are in series, and the 24V output from the stator passes thru diodes like any other alternator, The 12v output from the first stator windings pass thru SCRs. These SCRs are...

Nice cascade failure! The compressors will always pass some oil. Finding some in the dryer doesn’t surprise much, finding a lot even less so if it hadn’t been chnged in a while and was perhaps not purging properly… that will indeed mess with the flow though…

It looks like an AD9… The dryer is not like an oil filter, it only filters/dries the air being injected into the system, so if anything got past the old cartridge, its in the system and swapping cartridges won’t fix that. Just keep the others sealed and change them annually. You can get an...

Have you cleaned your old one? Frank put a link to my video on how to do it. All these dryers work on the exact same principal, the moist air passes thru the porus media and the moisture coalesces out of the air into droplets and gravity pulls those to the bottom to collect. The purge cycle...

Yep, it just hangs from the connecting hose. With the flare fitting you can set the orientation of the hose so it stays clear of the rotating parts and hangs in tension when the engine is running as it arches up to the shroud pass-thru fitting. Stupid design? Perhaps, but seems functional enough…

Ahhh PVT Snuffy, not the sharpest tool In the shed but a dam fine shot! You may have pushed the 200A current limit pulling that heater current thru it for that start, and the restriction to the flow from the diodes at that flow rate certainly explains the voltage drop at the meter…. you didn't...

I wouldn't think it would effect the caps as it should only be DC as with a resistive heater there is nothing to generate any noise…. my info shows TL508 at the solenoid end of that power cable. what I was talking about earlier, if the heater elements are a pair in series, and say one...

Another possibility you should explore is that I believe they make the heaters in 12 or 24v config. Someone may have shifted yours to a 12v heater. It looks like 2 heater grid units side by side so may be wired parallel for 12v operation or in series for a 24v installation…???

To get the same heat/wattage out of a 12v unit you need to pull twice the current…

Yea that solenoid is right at the back end of the head so water down the back of the cab can get to it. Not sure if its coil is powered by 12or24 but the ECU is controlling the coil current path…

It will also probably work a lot better on 24V:)