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Yes, and having done it now, I discovered it is easier to simply bypass them than to remove and cap the inlet lines at the 2way checks.
here is something that shows how easy it is… i also removed the check valve and fitting and all that associated tubing down in the bumper and put a quick...
Hey, I know why the intake heater is pulling your 14V down so much…
Because it is supposed to be connected to 28V, not 14…:)
TL507 is the feed to the intake heater. It is supposed to be connected to the “24 battery” terminal on the LBCD. From there it runs thru a fuse and to the intake air...
I forgot yours was an A1R(too many different discussions:)). Have run across a few with A1 and a 260A.
yep lots of ?
What I have gleaned from other troubleshooting sessions is that the LBCD sends 28V to that F- terminal. If you disconnect that wire you can see it on the wire coming from the...
Well if this was an A1, I am pretty sure it didn’t come standard with the 260. That may have been the original LBCD though….
So if it had a 100A alt, and had AGMs installed, I could see it disconnecting more frequently due to overload and working those caps harder…
Now if a 260A needs to...
The running load of the truck with everything on is perhaps 30A@14V or about 420W, And maybe 20A@28V for another 560W or 980W total.
With dead batteries and everything turned on, the alt will probably be delivering it’s 60A max load@14v and the remaining 40A@28V. Thats 1960W. When the LBCD...
Most alternators don’t protect themselves from overload, try arc welding or charging lithium batteries directly with one:) they do tend to self derate with temp increase, and I believe these alts do so as well, but that is partly to accommodate differences in charging hot lead acid batteries...
Yea the heat syncs are for the diodes, All the electrical power used by the truck, other than to crank the starter motor passes thru those diodes…
The circuitry monitors the duty cycle that the regulator pulses the alternator field via that F- or AC terminal on the regulator. When it sees a...
I think on the early A1 it is not automated. I don’t think they did that until they started integrating both the intake heater and the ether. looking at the A1 drawing, the intake heater is controlled by the ECU, but the ether is still controlled manually. Does your truck have both intake...
Just so we are not confusing anything there is a manual battery disconnect back at the batteries. There is a remote battery disconnect sw under the drivers dash, just to the left of the steering column. The main ignition switch is on the dash above the start button. There is a second remote...
Oh wow, no I was thinking 30 min, 45 min, maybe an hour… I wouldn't leave it on all night,
The block heater will not help with warmup, only startup.
on the 3116 They diverted the bypass coolant from its normal Path back thru the engine where it can warm steadily to op temp, and sent it all...
Yea, What Awesomeness said. out in the cold, I figure the losses will equal the input after 30-45 minutes… would be pleasantly surprised to find it works with less, just havn’t had a chance to try mine yet…
On the 3116 The press and release the throttle, then hold at 1/3 is for all starts, not just cold ones, but I don’t think I have ever started mine this way. Thats how I start my tractor though…
From 32F down to -25F, you press the starter button then press the ether button for 3 seconds on, 2...
They may have built a noise suppression filter into the device to help cut down on the trucks(alternator) electromagnetic signature. They put filters on the wiper, washer and heater motors for this reason… The LBCD also contains the alternator load monitor circuitry, so would expect you to find...