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CB 79 provides 24V ignition to P116-4 on the controller under the passenger dash. CB 43 provides 24V battery power, to P115 pins 1 and 16 At the controller…
and as mentioned, lift the dash panel and check the connector at the keypad also…
Well like I said earlier, voltage isn’t good until tested under load. A high resistance connection will pass full voltage with no load applied to it(resistance resists current flow not voltage). But the voltage will quickly fall on its face as soon as you try and draw any current. Bad...
What NDT said, whats going click when you turn on the main switch and what goes click when you push the button. You also need to measure the voltage at the power test points in the power panel WHILE you are pushing the start button(voltage isn’t good until tested under load)…
Well that one having cutouts for the wheels looks like it was mounted directly to a frame, so it probably has a sub frame already attached to it… it might require some significant modification to set on a flatbed cleanly, including removing that skirt that has the wheel cutouts. That may...
Someone
someone else had a bad position sensor, but that was hard shifting while driving. I get the impression from the OP that this happens when he enters 1st gear using the buttons on the control. 1st uses that P6 clutch pack up under the rear case of the transfer, but other than it’s...
It is not so much arbitrary enforcement but knowledge. More rural office used to registering more industrial vehicles and they understand how to do it. Have heard same thing out of WA. One office says cant do it, rural office says sure did 3 like it last month…
Here is what it looks like. I actually have a sketch for something less cumbersome that hangs in a hole with a weighted lever. Some back-pressure really helps with warmup…
The pole is about 7’(old fiberglass antenna). The pressure generated is considerable. You can barely get the bottom of the canister to set in the ex pipe opening against the flow. The pole rests on the ground against a brick. I have a pic I can put up later…
Yes, green Coleman propane can fits the ex pipe nicely:) I have seen reference in a few mil vehicle pubs, to a cold weather exhaust restrictor used to warm up the engine. Have never found the actual kit/device or it’s specific publication though…
Yep, the ex brake backpressure is a nice load to warmup the engine at idle. I have an old propane bottle on a pole I put in the exhaust pipe on my A0 to add back pressure for warmup. The pac-brake is supposed to disengage as soon as you step on the throttle though…
Disconnect the line I showed in the video, place it in a clean container with some new fluid in it so the end is Under the fluid. Command a tire raise and fluid should flow out of that hose into the container. are there any air bubbles in the fluid coming out of the hose? A bad seal in the...
My only concern about the Arduino is safety protocol. He gave me a look at his early program once and I went thru it and I recall that we discussed safety, like time limits to reach goals, so the system didn’t say chase a bad sensor and blow something up. I don’t know what he incorporated in...
If you don’t find anything put a boost gauge on it and see at what pressure it starts. Then you can remove the intake and exhaust line at the turbo and cap the turbo ports, then pressurize the system so you can look for it without engine/driving noises…
Sounds like an air leak between turbo and manifold… I would start by checking all the hose clamps and look for cracks/splits in the hose couplers. Don’t forget the line from manifold down to air compressor also…
The cab and tire cylinders have safety checks in them. air trapped in the cylinder can cause them to lockup. Basically the air stuck in the cylinder compresses and stores energy, and when you switch the valve, it releases the pressure. The compressed air forces the fluid fast enough to lockup...
In my A0 coolant system re-design I removed my bypass pipe where the thermal switch is placed. Since I am about to do some sensor changes in the coolant system, I dug it out and pulled that ether thermal switch out so I can get it into the thermostat housing. Looking at it, it is not the same...
This system on the LMTV doesn’t ”load” it is direct injection from the bottle into the manifold via a solenoid valve on the canister. it works differently on the different trucks. The A1R it is controlled by the ECU automatically. On the A0/A1 it is a simple circuit, 24V from CB22(fan/ether...