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I used the Energy Suspension brand on mine. My bolts up there were really skinny, kinda tough to get out. I hit tractor supply and got some grade 8 bolts to replace them. Those spinning nuts suck!! Gotta cut open the floor to wedge them to get the bolt out or heat it up with a torch...not...

Did they happen to throw in more than one!! I wouldn't mind finding one of those.

I went in the TM on page 118-1 or page 285 of 984 and found part number 1257087 as the original part number for the valve. The TM pic does show that it uses both outputs for the front so it can make a wicked pull on hard braking. It can get stuck but some good jams on the brake can get it...

The brake light coming on should be the proportioning valve being stuck...I think that's where it gets the ground from...other than the parking brake....it is under the radiator support...I don't think I'd shoot the parts cannon until that gets checked...it can be replaced or I usually hit a...

Replacing the VRV on the side of the Injection pump IP there is a spec for arm travel for it and of course a special tool to do so...I don't have that stuff and I doubt many do...I set the vacuum at 11 to 12 pounds off the trans side of the VRV at idle which is the top hose on the VRV...can plug...

Dang that's rare that they left the brackets on it!!! I usually type in cucv in the search of marketplace. Sometimes you get lucky! If you are looking for groups look for square body and cucv ones in the search for groups too. Look for high post counts per week and member numbers! Hillbilly...

Look on facebook marketplace...I found a random guy selling a set there not long ago. I got a set from cucvrus a few years ago but not sure if he has any left. There's more to them than just the tube as well...there's a bumper mount that goes with each side...I am assuming you have the parts...

yes that should work for sure! I do a long parking lot and go in reverse and hit the brakes a bunch...sometimes you can hear them click if they're out to far.

So reading you're difficulty with getting the long spring from the parking brake cable to the arm...I use a long pair of side cutters and push the spring back with it and lightly hold the cable with it...then you can pop the end on the arm easy...the bottom spring for the adjuster can be tough...

So he did the power steering lines and oil cooler lines today. He got a little nuts and broke the oil testing line twisting it. So did a fast double flare and it was fixed! Also dove into some old tools for the tilt steering bolts that worked loose too. It was good to get in there and fix a few...

weld a nut to it and it'll come out...I think it's a 1/8 inch pipe thread that you hook a hose to that runs up to the drivers side radiator hose mount.

I know people use the sprays and such but I have always used graphite when dealing with the speedo heads....even the cables I'll puff a bunch of that in it too. It doesn't gum up like the oils do.

I know this doesn't help much but if she can get a charger on the batteries where it sits that would speed up the repair process...plus once it starts she can run it for the day without shutting it off since it doesn't take much power to run...which might get here closer to someone that can...

The place I'd look is the TM section of the gensets. It has tons of info on where to look and troubleshoot. I am assuming it didn't run when you got it but if it did was the oil gauge working and the switch?

I like to look in the TM and get part numbers and nsn from that then search those out. What I find is NOS parts from surplus companies out there that don't charge much at all plus you usually get American made parts. They will be old but not used so they'll work perfect.

Ok so I looked at the pics you posted of the spindle and the red arrow....That looks like the bearing spun on the hub. Outward from the red line the shiny metal gets dark like not machined...right at that point it looks like there's a lip there as well which there shouldn't be one. What...

You got a live one there!!! The bar that is bent on the floor goes under the wheel cylinder in the notches on each shoe. You are missing spring 22 that goes on the one end of that bar. The parking brake bracket that's laying next to the bent bar goes through the self adjuster part 16 if you...

I think once he gets the 300$ bill to fill up the tank you'll know if he's up the other repairs!!

Bouncing that much at idle is typically the diaphragm...the engine would basically have to be shutting off to get that low of a number...there are pods on ebay and other sites for a click over 130$. Might want to send the tech the guide on how to set the vacuum valve on the throttle...once you...

Yes that's where they should test it. Just curious about the actual reading of vacuum, meaning it's bouncing up and down or steady vacuum at 20hg? Changing the puck is easy and I doubt the gear is worn that bad...can pop it out to check though.