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No idiot light monitoring of the trans on the A0. I would suspect that your oil pressure switch is full of crap/corrosion and starting to short out… the neutral start contacts from the trans interact with that oil pressure light, start lockout and alt excite circuitry. if you remove the diode...

There is another remote disconnect sw over by the remote start switches in the passenger wheel well. The remote disconnects in cab and passenger wheelwell and the LBCD(new fangled polarity box) control those solenoids, but the LBCD only does it based on alternator load. there is a manual...

Put a valve in where the sample port is plugged and drain some off into a clean container. You can always add it back:)

Well the cooler is empty also right? you could probably add a gallon straight away as I am sure it will take well over that amount when all is said and done…

The new ones are 1 1/4” ID X 14’ right? 14’ of 1-1/4” line will have an internal volume of 206 cu/in or about .89 gallons...

Well if they are coming right back something is going on. I have trouble shot alt issues where the folks have drove for days without an alt and not had low volt issues… the fact that the codes returned when you took the alt out of circuit indicates it is not the issue anyway…

Tl10c is 24v tl99c is 12v tl520 is ground tl607 is also a ground… the grounds connect to battery 3(forward outboard) neg terminal E2. there should be a diagram inside the battery box cover…

Your batteries OK? You should have been able to drive for a while on good bats with the alt offline without getting a low voltage code. Have you gone over all the grounds and checked the connections to the controller? Have you measured the voltage at the controller connections? 3V? I didn’t...

If you can reliably replicate the problem, take the alternator out of the equation. You can pull Relay K11, that will take the alternator off the line… 80mv seems a little high, but I have not put a scope on mine. Where did you sample that voltage?

So no charge voltage at the batts, do you have any at the alt output terminals(both LED’s flashing green on the reg tells me you probably do). The A1 and A1R have a device called a LBCD, which monitors how hard the alt is working and will disconnect the battery if the alt is overloaded. So...

Wrench? Oh thats funny…:) pick the shortest line you can reach with a wrench and remove it. That will allow you to pull it out a little farther to get to the next shortest, and so on. Keep doing this till you either reach the one that is leaking or have it de-installed for replacement:)...

Yes, it has the integral shock absorber inside the bag… Tha airbag is the easy part, it is fitting the shock that is the hard part…

Exactly, where is the air venting from? If up behind the grill, that vent is also shared by the treadle valve vent, so you need to determine which device is venting. The treadle valve vents from a port on the rear facing side of the valve body above the pedal. It has a line you can easilly...

Lowest bidder baby!

That one is a plain rubber disc, you should be able to cut your own from thick gasket material. You can also get complete valves, this is a common air brake part…

The part cross number for that sw 7N9785 says it trips at 225F which is a little high… it is normally closed though, which is the hard part of this equation. there are lots of automotive coolant/fan control switches out there, but most all are normally open until they reach set temp. You...

Thats a good point, having seen some mis-diagnosis, are you sure yours is dead? With the truck running, connect a small jumper between the forward regulator screw terminal(EXC) and the 28v alternator output terminal. There should be 24v from the battery on that large terminal tp ground and...

Well if you were not on the road, I would say this is a good time to convert to a commercial 24V 200A alt and a 24-12 converter/balancer(about1/3 what you are going to pay for another N1506 alt). It might still be a good time if you can find a 24v alt and mount where you are at. You could...

Well if it doesn’t have an oil drain plug it probably doesn’t have any oil, so not being able to start with no batteries is maybe not a bad thing:)

OK reviewing the schematics I think you have 2 things going on: 1. The fan control thermal switch is bad and when it is hitting 200F, it is removing power from the solenoid, but at the same time switching it to ground. The fan power is drawn thru CB22, but that gets power from the switched...