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Oh geez getting a mouth clip from a ratchet sucks!!! I've lost a front tooth from that!! Good luck on the other bolts!

ok having a guage for each does make it easier to do! as far as what wire goes to what not sure. I think I see 6 wires on the plug to the fuel transfer switch...I'd have to go on a site for non cucv wiring for gm and find the schematic. I think there's a site called classic wiring?? might...

So the madness continues as he now looks for parts we don't need...an engine that had low miles on it before it was parted out...was sad to see the blazer get scrapped but at least he got the engine out of it. The NOS block heater has been working great too. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

You need to jack up the frame with the bumper not the axles...need room between the axle and frame to get it out...if you lift the axles there won't be room...I use a trail bumper jack to lift it quick on the grill guard to get them out...only takes few inches so the axles are still on the...

I think the fuel valve has a feed and return line for each tank so that's pretty simple...the wiring from the switch is a little more challenging if you want the fuel gauge to indicate for each tank...if you just do one tank for the gauge it would be very simple...from the switch to the valve.

My sons 1009 did that before his batteries pooped a few weeks ago when it was cold. New batteries and it doesn't do that anymore. Not sure if you have a battery going bad or just weak, a corroded battery cable who knows...or nothing...low idle setting would probably do it too. Neither of...

So I've given up on these block heaters from zerostart temro and called Gm...both failed...so the parts guy takes the time to look up what gm used and found a discontinued number...996246...so a quick search found several NOS ones on Ebay...I figured I can't do any worse with a 20 year old part...

That big ground wire you have going to the frame is that hooked to the block on the firewall or to the rear head? I don't have that big wire to the frame just a small one off the front battery. Is great to see this running! Keep that trans fluid going!! I have found dexron 3 at tractor...

that glow plug control can be confusing sometimes especially if you had it running and warmed up sometime that day...they might not come on when you think they should. Be careful with those test light leads though...might blow more than a fuse next time...tape it all up with just leaving the...

That really does sound like the ignition switch. Can find out quick once you get it running tomorrow...once it is, remove the ground cable on the front battery and see if it shuts off...if the bad ground theory is valid, then it should shut off...which it shouldn't...low light output or slow or...

I have one and it works great! I have the 803 though....one thing I found was to unplug it before you start the genset...on mine it won't make power if I do...no idea why. Other than that it works great keeping the batteries up to snuff.

so it has a 5 amp charge or 7.2 amp agm or lithium....I can see how this charger could be kinda confusing since a 1.5 amp repair is more like a float charge...I guess they got something in these that makes that low of a charge do something.

maybe you have a 1028?? I think they had the govlock in the front? Probably to cold to play with it now but popping off the diff cover would tell you...if not you could have worn spider gears that aren't spinning like they should and making both tires get power.

I'd ditch the noco for this and get a regular charger that puts out more amps to get a deep charge. 7.2 amps isn't really enough to do anything unless you leave it on for days. The settings on that charger are not designed to charge a dead battery.

ahhh so the 7200 is a fancy name for 7.2 amps...ok...that's not much at all. I'd charge for at least the 2 days at that low of an amp. I still have to get used to these chargers that don't let you charge dead batteries. I remove the board in my portable chargers so they'll output volts to...

Sounds like you had 2 problems but if the lights just shut off like you hit the balckout switch then it could be the fuse melted in the box...30 amp...on the right side about in the middle....I've had all mine go bad to the point the metal fuse end fell out of the plastic fuse...I'd check and...

If you go on LMC they have the parts you need...the end is called the clutch...thinking you'll need all the parts for it since there's a spring and block and other stuff to make it work. If you look up this part number on their site you should be able to find the rest of the stuff you need...

That depends on the charger...if it's 12 volt or 24.

Knee jerk guess on the battery....possibly charging it overnight wasn't enough...not sure what a 7200 is as far as charge stye and amps...the noco 5x2 is really meant to top off and maintain and not charge up from a lower state of charge...I've also read that to get a red top to charge it needs...

I have put anti gel in it and my 3 275 gallon tanks as well. I think I found the issue though, the return line right at the rear injector is sweating out about 2 feet long. Might be loosing prime. I replaced that 3mm?? line and ran the pump for about 10 minutes. It started with a cold cough...