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Up in the speedo head itself I have used dusty graphite puff stuff that doesn't gum up the mechanism inside...it only takes a little bit and it should run smooth for a long time.

I went out and looked and took a few pics of what's on mine...not sure if that'll help with the ones you have. They look a little different than what's on mine now. The screw pockets look deeper.

You're in better shape than most if the glow plugs work!! The articles I'm talking about are at the beginning of the forums for the CUCV...it says Tm's n such...they are very long but have every part number and all the info you should need to get it to work right. If you can find someone that...

well...where most people start is at the TMs in the stickies at the beginning of this forum...it has all the info you need to go over all the wiring plus there's one just on the alternators to get them to work right as well...this stuff is pretty straight forward to get going...it doesn't look...

Dang busy beaver cutting up trees and old tops...hate to see the tops go, but I have 2 of them myself...keep cleaning up though and finding more parts!! Need a few things!!

You asked about differences...that new pic is of my truck tank. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

The blazer had the big hose for the breather built in to the top of the sender the truck had that built into the tank. This is my truck tank top. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I like that 3 color paint you did...looks great!!

yes it is a 4 hose deal...one is the vent for the fuel filler though so that leaves 3 on top 2 are for fuel and one is to run something external or to pull the fuel out of the tank...it is capped on the side of the frame if it's still stock...don't leave it open though leave it plugged. I have...

I didn't look up the procedure on the test but did you have to remove or at least put something in between the brushes before the test to take them out of the equation or do you leave them in contact. That could change the number that big being it's more than double from what it should be. The...

I like it when you say you've found more parts!!!

Yes they all should be fully automatic.

Yeah they are expensive and cheap...was at a big swap meet today looking for long stainless used ones I could swap the blades out of...I couldn't find any long ones though...I am using the 22 inch size.

I've been having trouble with the plastic connector breaking...mine only have a few rains on them and their falling off already...do they make metal ones anymore! Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I have enjoyed reading up on everything you've done so far...truck will look new when you're done!! As far as the gauge goes you can adjust where it lands on the gauge by bending the bar the float is on in the tank sender... I see you have the bed off so it wouldn't take much to take it out and...

When you do an alignment the steering wheel is locked to the straight position...then once the wheels have been aligned the steering wheel will be straight...you align the truck to the steering wheel not the wheel to the truck...usually when I do an alignment on something that has been taken...

That's funny you know where the one I'm talking about is...I was ready to try anything!! I remember when I thought it was bad I looked up replacements and found a bunch but had to buy like 10 at a time for like 8$ and for some reason I never bought them!

It runs perfectly just does the no breaker thing and won't make power...I've tried the drill thing and thought I did the flash but I used a 9 volt battery...it did nothing...thought that the diode going to the breaker was burned out so I cut it out thinking it was bad but then it tested fine...

I have some hotrod friends that did the lizard skin spray gel...they swear by it...not sure how it compares to the kilmat but I'll look into that as well.

Mines still sitting, has been pretty much since I got it...never could figure out which ones to flash so it's been yard art since...I'll give this a try and see if I can get something out of it.