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The problem is most likely with the poppet valve. Either rebuild or replace the valve. While you're at it rebuild the sprag declutching cylinder. Both rebuild kits are available through Memphis Eq. I replaced the poppet valve and rebuilt the cylinder. When all is working you'll be able to hear...

With the assistance of our resident Cummins guru, Brother WillWagner, we changed out some crappy rocker box gaskets (the #3 was leaking down the back of the block) for the good stuff, new fuel jumper o-rings, new rocker shaft o-rings and, topping it all off, some new rocker box cover gaskets...

Leave it. It adds character ;)

Get yourself one of these, a Nathan P3, or similar. And activated through one of these, a Graham-White metering valve. Almost turns the horn into a musical instrument ;) The whole set up is plumbed with 1/2" DOT nylon air brake tubing and push-to-connect fittings. It's connected to the dry...

That's a Nathan P3 in my truck. Reminds me of the Southern Pacific. I can blow a 'grade crossing' and the needle won't even budge. I did add an additional 8.5 gal. tank behind the cab for more air volume. The tank helps with air tools also. [thumbzup][thumbzup]

Stuck solenoid?? Get ya' one of these...

Love that shiny new IP[thumbzup]

Fixed a bothersome leaking PTO access cover with a custom PPE machined aluminum cover and some RTV Ultra Black. AND then, pumped ALL the oil back in...AGAIN...Oh, after the gasket cured. I finished up the frame tie-downs install. Then only did I realize there are two more (one each side) right...

[thumbzup][thumbzup].

Found them on eBay via Memphis Equipment. I think they have one set left, not cheap, but cheaper than they used to be. PM sent with link.

I painted and installed a set of these improved heavy duty frame tie-downs. I bought them as a kit with hardware. Why? I don't know. Cool factor, maybe?? I use the ones between the rear axles to chain lock my chocks up. My truck takes 14 and the kit included 16, so I have two extra.

I did a little research for you in the -24P-1 (Fig. 31) and -24P-2 (Fig. 46). The cross member (pictured above) carries two different part numbers for winch (12302674-2) and non-winch (12302674-1) trucks. I would fathom a guess that the -2 cross member is slightly narrower to compensate for the...

I paid a little over $300 when I got my complete kit in Nov. '11. I got a new passenger door at the same time and it was all local to me. That made it even more of a bargain.

There ya' go! No you're talkin'[thumbzup][thumbzup]

I finished up the PTO seals job by refilling the transmission oil. That's always a messy job, but this time I used a better transfer pump (with few modifications, i.e. longer hose and a bottom stand-off). It only took a little over five minutes to pump 11-some-odd qts. all back in. The hose...

Routing to the engine compartment might be better. You can avoid making more holes in your cab floor or transmission tunnel.

That is the exhaust port for that twin poppet valve. You know, where you hear the audible "PFFT" when go from Neutral to Reverse and back again. You can attach tubing or piping to route it to higher location, but DON'T plug it.

Installed new shift shaft seals, output shaft seal and a new gasket on the output shaft seal housing on my front winch PTO today. I also applied some gas sealant tape to the threaded housing for the shift shaft detent ball/spring. I was getting a small host of seeps and drips.

OK, I'm getting caught up here so this is all over the past few weeks... Not pictured: I installed some upgraded civilian style wiper blades. I replaced my Truck-Lite LED headlights with a pair of Maxxima LED's. One of my my Truck-Lites lost one of the low-beam LED's:mad:aua:doh: I'm a little...

McMaster-Carr has the same hose and fittings (except the inverted flare type). http://www.mcmaster.com/#brass-push-on-hose-fittings/=vvv8zo http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-on-hose/=vvwvg7