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Well if it is getting power to the ECM... The ECM’s have an internal memory battery which has a finite lifespan. They fail and wipe The ECM programming... They are also not replaceable so you may need a new ECM... you may be able to pull the ECM and take/send it to cat to evaluate it...

I took my factory tray out. Mine are in line front to rear in the box and strapped down To fit between the rectangle depressions in the top cover. This is temporary as I will ultimately fit my house batteries in the box along with the service batteries but the top will have to be modified for...

Actually just looked this up during a discussion I was having yesterday:) On an A0, The aux trans fans are controlled by relay K15. Relay K15 is wired in parallel with the engine cooling fan air solenoid so should come on when the main fan clutch engages whenever the coolant temp exceeds 200F...

you can apply 120 PSI air to the front emergency gladhand From a compressor to run CTIS with the engine shutoff, chock the wheels as this also releases the park brake springs. the rear service gladhand only gets air when you step on the pedal/activate service brakes...

Selected mode blinking means it is working on getting to that selected mode. Select the next lower mode, X-Country and that buttons LED should flash for a bit untill it reaches that rated pressure where it should go steady. Once that happens, re-select Highway Mode and it should do the same...

Yep, bubble mix has to have a gap small enough to still be able to maintain a film in order to make a bubble. you might also miss axle seal leaks if you dont also check the axle vents for air with CTIS operation...

The liquid to liquid isn't likely to clog in a sealed system. The worst failure mode for the liquid to liquid heatex would be for it to leak coolant into the trans fluid, which basically wipes out all the trans clutchpacks... if I was making a 1088 into a camper I think I would look at going...

Well the troubleshooting For 5 flashing does go in the direction of searching for air leaks...

Even though it has external coolers the trans fluid still passes thru a heat exchanger up under the front of the engine. You have to exceed the radiators capacity to remove heat from the trans(and engine) to get warm enough to engage the secondary cooler... or yours is broke:) not sure how...

The pair of group 31’s should be just fine... 4ea 6tl’s was gross mil-spec overkill. I am using a pair of 31’s for the service batts also and don't plan on changing...

Yea I kinda came to that conclusion thru a couple different conversations a year or so back when I was writing about the manual-electric Control. Around that time, someone else had an issue with their harness And ran into problems replacing it. During those discussions we discovered different...

The A1 schematic I found here at SS, shows H as “power+“ and Pins M and Z as “Power +(optional)“

What year? Are these individual gauges(each gauge receives power and is connected directly to its sensor) or are they bussed gauges connected to a MMDC? On an A0 with individual gauges, each gauge receives power directly from the instrument circuit breaker CB77. On the later A1’s the gauges...

Like Spankybear said, pin S on the controller cannon plug provides power for the Controller lights and for the controller to switch the ctis overspeed light on and off in the dash. That power(from the CTIS CB-40) arrives via the de-energized contacts of K-52. When you turn on the blackout...

There is no adjustment for the purge valve it is simply a sliding core that receives air from the governor to activate and purge the dryer cannister. It could be that ithas some crap init and is stuck... I did a utube video on overhauling the dryer media but did not really cover that valve...

Yes, you could disconnect 598a, or you could simply remove K11. The other switched contact of K11 goes back in the harness to the troop switch(provides power when engine off) but its purpose is not specified anywhere that I have found. Coachgeo‘s idea of using it to enable lights is...

Ok, maybe some clarification is in order. There are 2 valves on the air dryer. One is a safety relief valve. On the original dryers it is on the top(i‘m pointing at it in the pic), not sure where it is on the Haldex units. Like a popit type safety on any air compressor, under normal...

The dash gauge reads voltage from the power dist panel... neither of those wires On the reg goes to the gauge. One is 24v supplied from K11 to excite the alt once oil pressure is over 15PSI... the other wire runs to the STE connecter under the Drivers dash and is only used by the STE equip to...

Well thats a cool one, 2 valves failing the same way at the same time Is pretty rare... if those are not flowing, they are only part of your problem Though and dont explain the other symptoms. Like what is causing the overpressure at the dryer, and what is leaking away the air downstream Of...

the primary and secondary tank see wet tank pressure simultaneously, so it would have to be 2 failed valves, or one system would be reaching a greater pressure than the other. Also If the inlet to the primary and secondary tank were the problem that means the wet tank would Still be receiving...