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AWD can seem like 2WD as it has a center differential so if a rear wheel can spin, ALL the torque can escape thru the rear diff and a single rear wheel. The center diff is geared so the rear end has a mechanical advantage(70% torque to the rear, 30% to the front) and unless you are loaded to...

unless you re-wire, the cable gauge suggests about a 200A limit...

It might have been for structural re-enforcement/backing when hanging stuff on the inside or outside of the box...

If y0ur ctis is programmed for that higher pressure vis the 55PSI on the M1078-79. Or if you have done the 150PSI transducer hack...

Figure out a way to get a different ratio other than 2:1 out of the gear sets on the ends of the axles...

Yea they use captive spring torsion relief on a lot of vehicles, particularly those with heavy loads, so you see it a lot on tanker truck configurations. The 1079 puts the springs on the bottom of the welded perches in the front and bolted together on the rear

Yea, the ones can be disassembled have wrench holes around the collar like shown in the video, or on the face plate that the rod protrudes from so the end can be unscrewed

The top 2 gears in the Alison core are already overdriven, but the fixed gear reduction in the transfer case cancels that out... you really want to do this in the axle/wheel area anyway to lower driveshaft RPM...

In the installation the box attach points rest on 1/2” thick rubber pads. 2 have bolts thru them, the other two have long bolts with heavy springs under the mounts pictured to allow the frame to pull away from the box attach point to the limit of the spring compression...

Here are the pockets welded on the upper frame rail on my 1079 chassis... I took these and did the pocket drawing for someone who was fitting a 1079 box to a 1078... The tape measure is hooked on the rear end of the frame to show position on frame...

Ours are swaged/crimped on. They are not rebuildable...

What NDT said, but add to check the voltages at the PDP test points While the button is being pushed. there should be 2 clicks when you push the button, a relay in the PDP and the aux start solenoid under the cab on the drivers side frame rail near the power steering reservoir. It is about the...

Alternately try to raise and lower the crane, either with the hand pump or the AOP. Select raise, pump till solid, select lower pump till solid repeate again and again. Mine stuck once and repeated cycling freed up the safety in the cylinder and allowed it to start working. Good luck!

Yes some have done it, I plan on doing it. The installed valve has restricted orifices to limit the flow to a level that keeps the safeties in the cylinders from tripping. The safeties are there to keep the cab from free falling if you break a hose or fitting. Having timed and checked...

The springs are not that difficult. To remove I take a large cheap standard screwdriver(18”) and grind a small notch in the middle of the blade To fit and hold the hook wire. I work this in between the spring hook so I can Push on the handle and extend the spring enough so the hook tip clears...

If your adjusters were stiff, I would suggest you also pull the wedges and self adjuster pawls(under the hex head caps/plugs) out and clean and re-lube them. Stiff nasty grease will keep the auto-adjusters from operating properly when you depress the pedal. If you pull the pawls out, pay...

Well all the cab electricals work to make that aux starter relay click, so they are most likley OK. Now jumping across the contacts of the aux starter relay(circled in red) should cause the starter to crank the engine as it sends +24 to the starter solenoid.

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The A0 schematic is in the back of all the M1078 tech manuals In the present conflict vehicles section. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m1078-tms.118919/ there is one A1 schematic there as well https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/fmtva1-electrical-schematics.158229/ I cropped the A0...

If the batts have been setting a bit, that is not a bad static voltge.