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Are you able to time how long it takes? how much flow your electric pump can actually push thru the system is a real important piece of info... an even better data point would be to time a cab lift with your larger pump relief set to say 1500 PSI...:)

The guy I dealt with at Omni was looking into a source of supply for the seals as he had been asked several times if they carried them. I passed along all my research info but dont know if they were ever able to stock them...

I figured out an easy way to fit a pressure gauge today so I took some video which I will upload once I get it edited. I saw about 1400 on mine to lift the cab and about 2100 to lift the spare off the ground. You need something that delivers about 0.5 GPM or less @1500 PSI for a 20-25 second...

Do you have the windshield seal? That was the real problem part. The new windshield was $172 from Omni, The shipping from WI to WA cost more Than the glass did... Unfortunately the new seal cost more than the windshield and shipping combined...

Omni glass and paint, oshkosh wi... i got a new windshield thru them... if the vehicle went thru depot level overhaul, the speedometer was most likley replaced. not sure how to positively determine if it went thru overhaul though. you know these things are difficult to liscence in Cali right?

Placed the way they are the framework only makes a 1” wall(R5) with a lot of thermal transfer area thru those tubes. I hope they have an inner wall and structure with a thermal break to increase the thickness/R value...

Look under "S.A.R custom boxes" they have a bunch of pics of their framework. Looks like 1X2 aluminum boxtube for floor, walls and ceiling on about 16" centers? The skin panels look to be a mix of bonded to frame and welded seams.

That would be weird... the quick release valves are controlled by air pressure(basically remote controlled regulators) and they should all see the same air pressure coming from the PCU. The dump valve in the PCU connects the manifold to a 7PSI relief valve on the side of the manifold and is...

If it were the dump solenoid on the PCU, both QR valves would be dumping, not just the one in the rear...

The front dump valve is beside the transmission, passenger side. The rear dump valve is on the back side of the frame crossmember behind the rear axle. Both these valves receive the same control air pressure from CTIS so if that valve only is shifting to dump, it probably has a problem like...

Dumping air from where exactly? If it is CTIS, the dump and wheel valves are controlled by air pressure. It takes a certain amount to open the wheel valves(6-7 PSI). The dump valve is basically a remote pressure regulator. When you decrease pressure on the supply side of the valve the valve...

Got a picture?

Yep, under keypad in the WTEC2 sometime in 98 they relocated it over behind the passenger kickpanel where your VIM is and did away with the VIM altogether.

Problem 1 sounds like bad batteries or connections. The alternator when commanded to excite by the oil pressure circuit will attempt to supply voltage to its regulated level. If it doesn't see the response/interaction it is expecting from the battery bank(particularly the 12 to 24v...

There is only really one "throttle" the hand lever and pedal are interconnected so the lever basically depresses the pedal to actuate the single cable that runs down to rotate the governor bell-crank. In the end though, a mis-adjustment of the throttle or the high speed stop on the governor...

Well lack of pedal travel or pedal not rotating the governor bell-crank to the high speed stop, would = not reaching full speed. They call it a throttle, but a more accurate description is speed selector. The pedal tells the governor what RPM to run at, the governor controls the throttle/fuel...

Two different problems I think. Based on the way the QR/dump valves operate I dont think there is a way for a failure to isolate 1 wheel. A solid bolt where the banjo bolt should be at the wheel or I would suspect a line has been disconnected and plugged/capped to bypass a bad line or a blown...

Yea, thats a big leak. the rubber glove works real well for seeing if the wheel valve is leaking past without having to remove and add a schrader valve... the front quick release/dump valve for CTIS is on the right side of the transmission(inside the frame next to the fuel tank). It has one...

Yep, sounds like a wheel valve. I remove the banjo bolt on the large hose connected to the wheel stud like Simp5782 suggested, but I tape a rubber glove over the hose back to the wheel valve. If the glove inflates the wheel valve is leaking. If so, Deflate the tire and remove the 4 screws on...