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Well of course they go somewhere but since the meter is in question the best place is at the meter. The dash isn't so bad once you tilt and extend the steering column. cb77 and cb83 feed the 12/24V meter switch...

Thats not much draw. A corroded connector or module could perhaps provide a current path and cause more drain when wet? Looking at the A1 schematic the troop heater wiring bypasses the cutoff switch also so a circuit being created there could also drain the batteries. Or lastly did it...

These? The connector shells should have the row numbers molded in them either inside or outside the connector shell.

You mean this?

Yea, I got that the alt was charging ok at the batts, measuring good voltage there and bad at the panel meter = bad meter or bad wiring. What I was getting at was depending on how yours is wired, the alt could be responsible for the drain. does yours have a manual disconnect switch and was it...

Well a bad 12V meter shouldn't have drained the batts. Meter performance could be a case of garbage in-garbage out. Have you connected a multimeter at the panel meter? It sounds as if y0u have a wiring issue somewhere or a failed component such as a polarity box or even an alternator, causing...

why dont you start a new thread instead of digging up a 3 year old one... You might get more replies. you need to fix the leak as no pressure = no cab latch release. What year truck? With batts connected do you have 12 and 24V at the test points in the power panel? Answere these in a new post!

Yep, you could control the wire off the alt field relay(would still need a 24V coil relay). I believe the excitation delay is there to save the alternator and regulator. While the starter is cranking, the battery voltage is very low. An alternator trying to come online at low RPM with a...

You will have to add a relay. there are manufacturers that make aux fuse panels with a relay which would be a fairly straightforward install, except you will need a relay with a 24V coil... Something like this one I found on jegs website...

What are you trying to do? The switch controls relay K2 which in turn powers most of the 24V CB’s if you need switched 12V you are probably going to have to piggyback the coil of a 24V relay off of one of those switched 24V circuits and have it switch 12V from X2...

Which filter assembly?

Yes. Fed directly from batteries thru polarity protection box...

The A1 was not all that different from the A0. Based on the relay count the A1R probably still isn't all that different. If you can shoot some closeup pics of the module covers so I can identify the relays I may be able to help. On a legible pic I found of module 2, I noted that relay numbers...

They also list the shock used inside the airbag, PP954900 @ $112...

The problem isnt the bag, its the integrated shock absorber/restraint system inside the bag that they chose for the LMTV. There are lots of bags suitable for the weight, but It cant be replaced by just a bag.

I am going to go with a single digital 0-30V and a switch to go between 12 and 24. FloridaAKM I would say you have an alternator/regulator problem or a connection issue. 26.8V is not a good running voltage(should be 14.5/29V). 26.8 divided by 2 is 13.4V which is barely above a 24/7 float...

First check I would make is that you are getting 12V and 24V power to X1 and X2 in the PDP. Then I would insure that the same power then passes on to X3 and X4 once the main sw is turned on. The A1 did away with the dedicated crank lockout relay(k24 prevented starter engagement with oil...

Sounds like you are all over it then, probably chafed thru and contacting the frame somewhere. Good luck!

Check and clean all the connections associated with the polarity protection device, as well as all your battery connections. It might be that enough current is flowing to start the power-up process but as soon as you try and pull any current thru a bad connection, the voltage falls flat and...

As long as the switch contacts are rated to the same level as the relay contacts of K1, no I see no issue with it... You could have simplified things a little. You only needed to get 5pin relays as they will work in both the 4 and 5 pin locations...