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Tom my switch still cycles at high RPM untill the tire pressure reaches somewhere over 65PSI. At that point the wet tank outflow to CTIS decreases closer toward what the inflow from the compressor is. At 40 PSI in the tires, I can go from a full wet tank to the 90PSI wet tank switch opening...

So you are using the wet tank pressure switches 115 PSI closed to 90 PSI open points to control the inflate timing? I thought about using that switch to control an indicator light on my manual panel to indicate wet tank pressure, but I find I can do it prettywell by ear. Dryer purge = full...

I would be curious what safety precautions are written into the code...

No real update, I unfortunately have a lot of projects and I am building a house. Am typing this while taking a break from struggling to put a windshield in the beast right now:) Yes you can use a toggle, if you leave control on, the system stays pressurized after checking the...

Well all the air from the primary and secondary tanks comes thru the wet tank so it is at least reaching the pressure registering on the pri/sec air gauges. The wet tank is smaller than the other two so will bleed off faster than the others... If you are doing any adjustments you really need...

Yep, The protection valve only lets air pass when the wet tank is above around 85PSI. There are two lines coming off of the protection valve, a large one and a small one. The large one feeds CTIS and the small one feeds the cab air suspension. You could start by loosening the small line...

And if it was really important to you, you could wire the switch into the troop switch circuit so the sonalert would beep at you:)

You turn the main switch on and press the start inhibit button once. This sets a latching relay(you can hear it click) and the vehicle will crank but not start untill you turn off the main switch, which releases the latched start inhibit relay...

To do what you are thinking I dont think those cylinders will have enough travel to allow you to hook them up before entering rough terrain and still have full suspension travel and the ability to suck down one side to a useable ammount. The other factor is how valuable will this really be...

319 summed it up, you have too many unknowns... Pressurizing cooling system, are there any contaminants in the coolant? Is there any coolant in the fuel tank? This could be related to an injector cup/seal which might not be nearly as expensive to overcome... As for the engine swap options...

How did you know it was the park brake? Did the park and emer brake lights illuminate in the indicator panel?

Welcome to the forum. Since you have a different problem, how about starting a new thread instead of resurecting a 4 year old one... might also help if you put the year and version(A0,A1) of your truck so we can maybe give you some accurate ideas where to look... As mentioned could be power...

That choice of oil is probably why they chose to alter the normal Cat bypass coolant flow and route it down to the transmission oil cooler. Normally the warm coolant coming off the head would flow back to the plugged port on the top of the water pump to recirculate in and warm the engine faster...

Ever see a carburetted engine with the plug wires hooked up incorrectly or with the timing or valves set incorrectly(sparks a cylinder with an intake valve open) backfire thru the carb on its first startup? The entire manifold is full of an air/fuel mixture and the bang and fireball can be...

No, it is right behind the cab latch. Get up in the bed, go to the front and look down just inboard of the air operated hydraulic pump. If the can is there, you should see the bottom of the can peeking up at you. Or if you lower the spare tire you should be able to see it from the passenger...

If it is an A0 then the closest thing it has to computers are the CTIS and transmission controllers... The Cat 3116 is all mechanicl baby... There is a tach signal in the console behind the heater that would be fed up thru the big round hole to the winch control panel that bolts on top of the...

Wow I did not read that that way:) the two posts before yours were talking about heater use and I thought... From the 20-1 service manual: ”Additionally, the vehicle is equipped with an ether quick start system designed for starting the engine when ambient temperatures are below 32°F(0°C). The...

Or just start a fire under it:) That has the added advantage of warming the oil... Compression ignition engines will easilly ignite gasoline vapors, the problem is it is unpredictable. Compression ignition is very efficient though as it ignites the fuel charge all over at once as opposed to...

That depends on the heater and what range snap switch it has specced. Some are for warmup and some are for maintenance. The gensets I maintain have a switch that keeps them cycling occasionally and the engine around 70-80 degrees. As for use: How long you run it depends on the temp and how...