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Welcome to the site. Pictures....we like pictures. Is it a completed 4x4 or are you doing that to it? What model? Do you have a boom/crane?

Yea Chris, thanks, a slider would work. The 105 gate is not all that robust at the bottom, so may require a bit of framing, which could incorporate a (gravity) slider door. I had a hinge in mind, but it would have been in the way when laying horizontal. The slider could be on the outside, not...

I had to think about the hole idea and it's grown on me. Thanks. Placement of the axle and back spring mount will be at a better place. A 4" overhang clears the clevis mounts and just the pintle will stick through, so the hole does not have to be as large, like you say MW. Please, anyone...

I like your trailer. Has someone extended it and put on A3 wheels with 14.5's? I'm doing the same wheels/tires when I get another M105? Have fun!

I want the gate to come down vertical and have an inch clearance or so to the pintle so I think I'll go with 10" rear overhang. The bumper has to go back too but not as far as the bed deck. Positioning of the rear axle ends up only 5" forward of the present rear rear axle to have the wheel...

Where should an M105 bed be in relation to the back of the frame and pintle hitch on a deuce? My frame is not shortened. Should the rear gate be able to fold clear down and not hit the pintle? That would require that the bed stick 9" minimum past the frame. Should the bed be even with the...

No I haven't. Too many other projects moved it down the list. I have a problem with the back jacks. They will interfere with the shelter, so when I do set it on, a new jack system should be ready to go. Most of my efforts right now are on making my M35A3 into a 4x4 and making a trailer from...

duplicate ...oops

Will look forward to the pictures. Big sycamore in the river is a lot of weight. Do you like sycamore wood? Have you noticed your front springs bottoming out? Here is my pole attachment point for the rear and I'll be making a front soon.

Welcome to the site Alex. That's a very nice looking M37. Was it a frame-off restoration?

The larger 1 1/2" cylinder WC-37317 from Oreilly has the proper V piston and spring. I took one apart standing at the counter. I'll have 2 in hand tomorrow. These will be the ones for the rear axle on my A3 4x4. The front already has them. I'll have 18% more area on each piston, but taking...

Interestingly, the two Oreilly pages don't seem to have the banjo bolt (thus the correct crush washer) in 1/2"-20, like our wheel cylinders. Putting the size with "banjo bolt" into Google does bring several results. What is hard to find is the block that goes with the banjo bolt for 1/2" x...

Fastenall or maybe NAPA in their brake fittings. Many people use aluminum "crush washers", but I still prefer copper.

It looks like you have the right piston. Mine is wrong. I still would take it apart and confirm the spring. The one I had with the wrong spring was in a Wagner body. If someone can use their pistons, the rest of what I have will work (posted a parts classified). It's not rusted and...

Yes, that was the photo caught my attention to begin with after you sent the link. I hoped to buy just pistons with the V for mine but Wagner says they are only available as a complete unit. Pistons are not available separately. I thought I was good to go with a full new set....NOT...that's...

Take the cover off and look at the piston. Does it have an inverted cone for the push rod? The kit for rebuild will work just fine....if you start with the right piston. I sure wish I had known my pistons were wrong before I ordered a 45 kit and new bleeders. I just ordered one of the 1 1/2"...

I just got off the phone with Wagner technical. The 3087 number that many of us have used is a casting number and is not the part number. I have seen it referred to in multiple posts but he says that casting could be used in 4 different parts with differing characteristics, one of which is the...

Problem.....Please see post #8 and look at the second photo. The cups have a center for the pin to fit into and not one of the piston cups on my #3087 have that pin centering feature...they are just flat inside.

I have not had mine (truck brakes) apart yet. What keeps the pin centered in the (flat) piston cup?