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Your discovering why most guys here recommend keeping truck stock. Wiring anyway. That way you have the TMs to consult and a lot more help here. The starting and charging system is a solid, proven design. Maybe not the best as it could be, but it works very well.

Engine temp sensor is drivers side head at the front. Glow Plug temp sensor is drivers side on top of block by firewall. The sensor you took pic of, as already stated, is the High-Idle temp sensor for the solenoid on top of the IP. No idea what the wiring is in the other pic. Since your...

If one was like that, then I would replace them all. A shock failing is one thing, but if one of those fails at the wrong time could possibly make for a really bad day.

The sensor bypassed/not connected is for the Hi-idle solenoid. No clue on rest since system has been modified.

https://www.crofttrailer.com/1829-hydro-act-actuator-shaft/ They have them in stock.

Dana 70HD Axle, sway bar, and springs have been sold. Now I don’t have to go back to AZ to remove it.

Thank you I found that out later. Another SS member called and discussed the schematics and troubleshooting with me.

See post #9

1992 UTB M101A2 Box on a M116A2 Frame. Searched SS with no luck. What exactly is done with a MSE Modification? Part number came up empty. Contract number dealt with generators, etc. but no M101A2’s. Internet was dry also unless I totally missed it. Closest I could find is Mobil Subscriber...

No technical reason at all. I like all my MVs as stock as possible, with very few exceptions. That’s me. I don’t care if the other is easier, better, cheaper, etc. That’s what it came with and that’s how it stays. For better or worse. If it fails again, I will drive another one of my...

Resistor checked good. Will not convert GPs to 12v. Truck will stay stock. Edit: Truck will not get the resistor bypass modification. I know the glow plugs are 12v. Above wording was in reference to the resistor bypass.

I know the relay installed now is good. Tested fine. Age??? Wear??? No clue. Just installing new one so I know it’s starting point.

Agree and forgot to mention it. Mine sat for 6+ years and was almost full of fuel. No algae and a bit of water. Truck started and ran great on it. Filter and seafoam dealt with water til gone.

I’m replacing GP relay tomorrow. Current one is original to truck and haven’t a clue how old it is. That way I know it’s status and timeframe.

Add a can of seafoam to help with any water in fuel issue. Physically pull on each fuse link. They can look good on the outside but be fried inside. Charge and load test the battery’s. Replace if in dought. Follow Other recommendations mentioned. Hopefully the wiring isn’t too badly hurt. A...

Looks good. How long will it last before it wears off?

Croft sells a ring adapter. https://www.crofttrailer.com/h3la2-1-2-croft-ring-to-coupler-adapter/ Better than cutting it off.

Other four were in one piece. All tested bad No pieces to be found in cylinders where tips broke. Installed new glow plugs and it fired up in about a second, if that. Truck running like a champ again.

They heat fine and fast. Mine started right up at -6* last winter without block heater plugged in. Dozens of guys here on SS are running 60Gs without issue. I wouldn’t worry about it.

I will add that it was very nice to have the 5 ton. Simply attach slave cable to slave port and not worry about draining battery’s while cranking during troubleshooting process.