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Prices are definitely going up. Sold my M923A2 and M998A1 last week to a guy who started up a conversation when I was getting fuel. Two days later he owned them. Wasn't really wanting to sell and definitely wasn't trying, but he made a REALLY great cash offer. Didnt drive them much anyway...

As mentioned it was for the guys who do not use a torque wrench. Just an air impact and hit go. Or use a tire shop Your way is fine since you do it the way it is supposed to be done. I did not make that clear in my first post.

That was meant for the guys who use an impact or have a tire shop do it.

NEVER use anti-seize on lug nuts. You will eventually snap off a stud It allows too much torque to be applied and is a LOT easier to break a stud. A drop of motor oil will keep it from rusting.

Don't waste your money unless he knows and, more importantly, understands CUCVs and their 12/24v system. Plenty of stories in the old threads about guys doing that and the clueless to CUCVs mechanic really screws things up worse.

Trickle chargers are for keeping fully charged battery's topped off. They are NOT for charging a dead battery. Low voltage can/will cause a run-on starter, and other issues too. Follow the advice and download and print out the schematics. They help a lot. Read all you can. Yes it's...

Post some pictures of each alternator and it's wiring. Battery's, resistor, GP solenoid, etc. Make sure battery's are fully charged and load tested. Is truck bone stock or have any electrical items been installed like radio, lights, etc.

It's a cheap failsafe. I have seen safety wire fail and it wasn't copper. Learned doing it by watching the mechanics. Its an art, especially on the more complex items. In fact, I am doing Axle boots this week and I get to use my new safety wire pliers.

Charge your battery's for sure. Do you have a digital voltmeter? Have you read the stickies and looked at the troubleshooting guide? Also read through the old threads. Tons of information there. Tackle one thing at a time. It is worth it Plenty of guys here to help.

I don't know if the answer is no for sure. I haven't searched the old threads for this specific topic. Have you?

I would never have let someone borrow it in the first place. Learned that lesson the hard way years ago. Never again.

Federal Paint Codes.

I bet you would be the first. Why do it unless you have lots of cash and tools and time. Not to mention skill There are other trailers that would fit that bill and do it a lot cheaper and safer. But if you want to chop up both your trailers, go for it. I would like to see the end result.

When someone is selling something, they price they paid to get it and then sell it is completely irrelevant. Supply and demand Shorter supply and increased demand is reflected in the selling price. Simple as that

Are you talking about the big 7" lights? Thats a big light. TL makes a smaller version that would fit much better. No cutting required

That should last as long as the truck does. Yes, it's amazing how much better the battery's perform when they get a proper charge. Bought my new alternator from him in December and they are better than ever. Very happy

When you looked up the NSN number, what did it say? Looks like a M1101 frame.

Have you ever ran any fuel additive, like SeaFoam, in the tank to keep the water in check and clean things up? It wouldn't hurt.

Restored 1950's era steel lawn chairs with the help of a wonderful trailer, the M101A2. Chairs were bought just over a week ago at a nic nak shop. Weather had been great, so instead of inside the shop, I took advantage of a great shade tree Using the tailgate of my tan M101A2, I sanded down...