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It does not alter the function. It's for operator use

That knob just selects which voltage source the set meter is looking at all you really need to care about is l1-l0 l3-l0 and l1l3 for voltage notice the inner ring there is an l1 l2 l3 please direct the current meter so you should only really care about the l1 and l3 positions

That makes it a utility set push the button in the side of the knob and push it into make gross adjustments down or push the button and pull to make gross adjustments up turning the knob counter clockwise and clockwise make fine adjustments with no load set it to about 61-62 Hertz using a...

Below the control panel into the right is there a throttle control knob? Not the rheostat on the panel

I'm not really looking at the diagram right this second but I was under the impression that it wouldn't crank if the speed switch was tripped I could be wrong my memory is not what it used to be

You're very welcome and this is why I love this forum. There is just so much knowledge and willing to help here. Give it a try and if you get stuck feel free to ask

Page 5 in the tagged message file, thats the control diagram this is where to start looking one of these contacts isnt making

@mwhiddon look at this messgae, I aim to please. there is so much back and fourth on ratings, I have loaded a zig zag 004 to 110% without issue, reguardless, hes so massively oversized i doubt he will max this thing

The colors on the gauge is correspond to the maximums for the different frequencies this set was designed to be used on both American and European equipment that require different frequencies so if you're running at 60 hertz the maximum Mark is the red mark on the percentage meter if you're...

Did it do that before the modification? Rough math you'll need about four to five to get it to 110% load

Easy old ovens are a great load Bank just keep an eye on Facebook for people getting rid of them

If you're having to hold the start switch up to keep it running there is a safety switch not being made probably oil pressure

The way it's wired now is consistent with your average residential utility so you don't have to worry about a massive unbalanced damaging the head because you won't have that third leg to worry about being at 0 amps

I'd say so the last thing you need to check is putting a load on and making sure the voltage stays somewhat stable

Did you win?

Where do you have that red wire running to from T12 to l2?

Big lead stays, add another between 2 and 12

There is such thing as reasonable paranoia. At the end of the day it's your piece of equipment and you have to make the call whether you want to do it or not

These are before the circuit breaker, so it would happen right after field flash Im a tad suspicious of the other exciter lead on t9. it should work, the t12 move definitely need to happen because its no longer neutral