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I blew out a crap-ton of leaves and acorn from the back and around all the cracks and crevices yesterday. Does that count? :D

I could really use those.

But for my $$$ it’s a lot easier to buy a couple of lawnmower batteries for like $75 and put them in series. Done.

If I were going to try this I’d put a 12v starter on the engine. I’d use the boost converter to power up the 24v systems on the generator. I’d energize the 12v starter solenoid from a Relay on the 24v starting circuit. The starter cutout could be used to disconnect the boost converter when the...

it does. My comment is more applicable to the 831 since it has a permanent magnet alternator and doesn’t need an external jump to excite it. You could use a 12v to 24v boost converter to excite the systems on a 802/803 once you start the engine With a 12v starter.

Put on a 12v starter with a button to engage it and leave the rest of it as it is. Should work fine. Use a 12v charger wired into the 120vac to recharge the starting battery.

The 831 is very sensitive to high starting loads. Mine will not start a 120v construction compressor where my 802 starts it without a grunt. I put a hard start capacitor on the compressor to see if that made a difference and nope. Trips immediately when I turn It on.

I have a couple of spare inverters from parts machines that after seeing this I'm considering rebuilding before doing anything else with them.

If its a Grundfos pump then its fine.

+1 on not adjusting the voltage up to get closer to 240v. Correct that L3 is the feedback for the VR on the 802/803.

For sure not 416v mode. That would be bad. 208v isn't normally an issue for residential 240v appliances. Take a look at the nameplate for the stuff and it will likely list 208v as one of the options.

Yea, you would set it up at 208v then use any 2 load phases such as L1 and L2 along with L0 for neutral plus GROUND to your backup power input. That will get you ~10kw. The remaining L3 terminal can be used with L0 for some ancillary 120v loads. Stuff like garage fridges/freezers and such.

Need to clarify that the neutral-ground bond can be on the generator ONLY if the generator load is NOT supplied by the main panel on/in the structure where the neutral and ground are bonded. You can NOT by code have the bonding jumper in the generator in place if you are powering through your...

It will be 208v instead of 240v but for most things it won't matter. L1 and L3 for your hot leads is OK.

Absolutely. That does drop it from a 30kw to a 20kw but it will certainly work that way.

Thats a tough one. The obvious answer always is - its worth what someone is wiling to pay for it. The larger 80X machines are a tougher sell sometimes due to them being 3-phase only. No single phase options on those unfortunately. My gut says $8-9K on the upper end here. Your market may be...

Two of the wires are for the exciter. Only 10 provide power.

To add, the generator will not "push" more power than the load demands (assuming the voltage output of the generator and the voltage input on the load is the same). No worries there. Where the problem comes in is with current available to the compressor in the event something goes wrong. The...

Since the compressor is rated lower than the generator output you'll want to put a breaker between the generator and compressor that is the correct size for the compressor.

Low resistance on the windings is a symptom of a short. If you can take a peak in there see if you have any discolored windings. Not much you can do to fix that unfortunately. You could pull the rotor and take it to a motor repair shop to see if it can be rewound.