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David is getting a GREAT education in the inner workings of the 831. Does anyone have a decent scan of the schematics? I need to work to restore them like what we did on the 802/803 ones.

I wish I could buy a 1040 for a reasonable price. :(

Would it be an option to have a local fab shot to build one out of steel or aluminum? Maybe not the lowest cost option but a sure thing to get exactly what you want.

We were spared the worst of latest cold wave here in NC. Low temp was ~20F last night. I'm heading out to do the final radiator flush on the unit with the gelled/crystallized coolant.

The compression is going to be pretty high if everything is OK. It may be more than you can do with a push-in style compression gauge. Those engines are dead simple and parts are readily available.

Yea, those engines are really easy starting when everything is working correctly. Sounds like you may not have quite enough compression. Any way to pull the injector and do a compression test?

Yep, if you can't inspect one of those in person then its a parts machine that will sell way above its value.

With tap therapy its always best to start off easy. :)

Those switches are a common failure point. It is possible the contacts are frozen. If you search around the forum you'll see how people have gotten them to free up. Most of the time it involves a bit of tappy-tap-tap on the stem of the switch. If I remember correctly there is at least one...

Good luck and be sure to let us know how the repair goes.

Understood. As Kurt said, its a bad diode. If there is any kind of electronics shop around you the part should be readily available. It isn't anything special. Very common. If you can't find it locally an online retailer like Mouser can have one to you in a few days.

Also to add, here is a diagram of the diagnostic port on the generator. If you look at the schematic you'll see little triangles with letters. Those correspond to the diagnostic port pin. I personally find this helpful to trace problems quickly...

CR1 is either in backwards or damaged. Can you take a photo?

Visit the TM section of the forum and download the manuals. There is lots of good info in there. Here are a couple schematics that may help. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2ucd1TGFTw_eEJMa21hX3FIRnc/view?usp=share_link&resourcekey=0-ZjPWQDcRXlpipKUwjijT8w...

Welcome David. Glad to see you posting. I hope someone has direct info on what it might be. It certainly looks like a testing mule. If I were guessing I'd say it was for environmental limit testing.

Did you let it run for a while and warm/dry everything out?

I have an 831 that will give an overload fault upon startup if I leave it out in the rain. To resolve the issue I will let it run for 15 or 20 minutes. The heat from the engine will dry out the inverter. I can then cycle the power on the unit and it will run OK. When I have some free time I'm...

I second that. The one I have had never used a drop of oil that I can tell.

Nice job.

The only thing I've been able to get at auction lately that I didn't think I overpaid for was the H140 heater I got a couple weeks ago. All the generators have sold for so close to market value here in the south that its hard to make any profit on them. :(