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I don’t have a 1040 but that does look like water and oil. Is there any coolant in the machine? One pretty simple test is to put some pressure on the cooling system and see if it holds.

I would make sure it was in good working order. Cosmetics don't matter too much but I would avoid one that was full of rust and corosion. Dents and dings I can live with but if its rusty then I'd be more concerned.

You can find them from time to time. After several years of looking I finally scored one (an Essex A427A) from an auction site for about $1,800 including shipping costs. It’s like new inside. I’m happy with it but a couple of shop heaters can be had for a few hundred bucks and will do a good job...

And if there is anyone near central NC that need their set load banked, let me know. I'm sure I can help.

The way to know the difference is if you can pick it up without causing a hernia then it not a low frequency inverter! 😀

Starting an AC is pretty tough on an inverter. I'd say to try it but don't be surprised if it can't kick the AC off. If you have one of the inverter based ACs they are a totally different story. They ramp up slowly and don't put a heavy surge on the inverter. I bought one for the house to use...

For sure. I'm interested in hard packed gravel or pavement. If there aren't any published numbers I may see if I can make a contact patch print to use as a starting point to calculate it.

Curious if anyone has measured the contact area of the tires or have seen any numbers for ground pressure on a FMTV or LMTV? I've done some searching but haven't found anything useful yet.

I'd say that won't quite cut it. 55 amp @ 13v is just over 700w. Your 500w load will draw ~600w of input power to the inverter. In my opinion that doesn't leave enough overhead to maintain the battery or any other power loads on the vehicle. It won't be good to run the alternator at max output...

Is there any way you can put some cleaner in a small container and soak the switch?

Ug. Hate to hear that but now you know.

With the 12 leads from the generator head disconnected test between each winding and the others. Also test between each winding and ground. As example test between T1 and T2. Test between T1 and ground. All should be open circuits.

And also to ground.

I mistakenly put S6 in my post above (corrected). You should be working on S8.

One other thing to check is where the wires go down to the generator head. I’ve had a couple of units showing chafing against sharp edges.

If you disconnect everything I'd test all the windings. Make sure they meet spec on resistance and aren't shorted together. From there you can choose whether to go back with the reconnect switch or make the voltage config permanent.

I would check all the wires on the reconnect switch (edit -S8 ) and see if they are in the right places.

Clamp on CTs are very common and are perfectly fine.

Anyone looking for an energy monitoring option that doesn’t require cloud services may want to check out https://openenergymonitor.org/.

I'd like to add that we may not always be able to monitor every circuit in a panel to measure load. Even if we can't, meaningful info can be determined from a usage trend from the main lugs on a panel. I've included a screenshot of the output of the inverter here at home. My emergency loads...