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In my opinion its best to go to a newer gauge that doesn't require the transducer. They are super cheap and plenty accurate for our needs.

If I were to design the ideal warmup sequence it would look like this: From start to coolant temp = ~100 degrees - No load From 100 degrees to full operating temp + 5 minutes - 25% load Adding a little load once all the fluids are circulating and starting to come up to temp helps diesels...

As indicated above you will need a controller that handles the start sequence for the generator. The inverter then will do a simple contact closure to trigger the generator start.

I jumper at the output lugs.

Running it hard is good for it. Like anything other than a nail, dropping the hammer on it is NOT. Hope it lasts a long time.

If you are talking about Adelmans, I urge caution. They did a bait-n-switch on me on a DM4. I'll not buy from them again and will recommend anyone else not buy from them as to not fall for their false advertising BS either. Strictly my opinion. As far as what you have now do a full rebuild...

Yep, battery too drained. That is why I suggested disconnecting the battery and starting it. That will tell you right away if your charger is working. I don't even have batteries in my 831 right now. I just pull start it.

I recently picked up a 80's vintage Kubota tractor with front end loader. I don't know how I lived so long without one of those things in my life!!

Disconnect the battery and pull start it. Does it run?

Have you ordered new membranes? According to the documents the skid uses Polyamide membranes. You can't store those in the housings for long without them becoming damaged. Also, you can't dry them out after they have been wet. Drying them will destroy them.

You can power the unit from 12-28V DC. There is a connector for that. Make sure you get the cable. I power mine in the field from either solar panels or from the trailer plug on the back of my truck. Works great.

You need to troubleshoot the governor module.

That sounds pretty normal. Have you load tested it?

How bad is it? What are you comparing it to? The 802 is known for being a bit lumpy. Not much you can do about that with a synchronized twin.

Have you read through this thread? Many of your answers should be there: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?186068-MEP-802A-MEP-803A-Filters-and-Parts

+1 Its not going to hurt your situation. That's for sure. You need to do more troubleshooting to know for sure where the problem is.

Not adaptable.

They may work with LiFe batteries. Will still need a BMS but its doable.

OK. You'll have about a 20v drop at the AC unit when it tries to kick on assuming 600' of 1 gauge copper. That is more than what you typically want to see but I don't think that alone is your issue.

Is the service cable copper or aluminum?