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Ok so she runs and it was quite exciting and as Mark said they fire pretty quick, so now the AAR. So my fuel supply was a jerry can with a return line and an outboard motor fuel hose for the supply. I chose it as it has a priming bulb which made it easy to fill the filters and prime the...

I used POR-15 Marine Clean, I removed the tanks and set them on a Coleman stove on the ground to heat the solution and loosen the crud on the bottom of the tank, then roll it around the yard for what seemed hours. It took a total of two days from start to end but worth it. I got rid of all the...

Video first, took a while to download with my primitive off grid connection, report to follow. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9gxfP5KkMw&feature=youtu.be

Curious to see what the inside of your fuel filters look like, mine had been sitting for 14 years, it took me two days to clean the fuel tanks.

Master cylinder installed, blew out the lines from the master cylinder end, not much air at the carrier so I detached the quick release and tried from there, still not much so I reversed and blew in the axle fitting and that started clearing the lines so back and forth a few times and now a good...

11602255 is the outer wheel bearing seal, 11602142 is the seal on the inner bearing on the back side of the hub(large disk wheel bolts to), 11602255 is the spindle(what the wheel bearings slide over) seal the inner most seal, MS51001-23-2 is the seal for the back side of the spindle where the...

See next post.

Good job Mark, I know you could do it.

Seal for the back of the hub 5330-00-410-2329/11640306 Bearing seals 5330-00-781-9639/11602255 5330-00-782-1444/11602142 Spindle seals 5330-00-781-9639/11602255 5330-00-143-8378/MS51001-23-2 First number is national stock number, followed by the part...

Parts from Saturn Surplus today, easy to figure out what I'm working on next.

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I am trying to prime my transfer case oil pump, following the instructions in the TM. I can pull a steady flow of oil through with a suction gun but all I can get by manually actuating the pump is a dribble. Is this normal or should I be able to get a steady flow manually? Thanks

Throttle linkage-check, exhaust manifold blasted w/high heat paint-check, 13qt engine oil-check, getting closer..

My goal is to have it cranking by the weekend, I have to jerry rig a fuel supply as my tanks are off. I'm going to crank it off the slave cable for power. I would love to have a FMTV but for now I'll have to settle on the old goat.

Care package from TX today, all parts in stock, speedy shipping and no overcharges, can't ask for any better service. Mark, thanks for bailing me out again. Now back to the garage.

Sounds like you did it right, check the spark plug wires to make sure they are in the correct firing order. With #1 at TDC check to see if the rotor button is pointing at the #1 spark plug lead on the cap.

If no voltage at the wire you need to trace it back, I'm not familiar with your wiring but you need to find the source of 24 volts to this wire. It is possible that the switch is bad. To test the alternator you could use a test lead and connect the 24+ at the alternator and the sense wire at...

There is a 24v sense wire going to the alternator, if I remember correctly you should see battery voltage at that wire with the ignition on. If you have voltage at the wire with the switch on and have cranked the adjust screw all the way up then I would say the alternator is bad.

Your trailer will easily handle the weight, just be careful about it tipping over.

I have been able to grease all of mine with a standard grease gun. I did grind a flat face on one side of the end to make it fit easier in some places and use a flexible hose. I did change out a few fittings to 90 degree to make it easier as well on the outer center axle u joints. It is a...