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Download this drawing - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2ucd1TGFTw_b0dqdURiS3lOZlU/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-SnpdiqMIwRdo7zl525x0sQ Look at the test points in the triangles. Those correspond to the pins in that big diagnostic connector on the left side of the machine. Start tracing it...

This is the correct location for your request: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/forumdisplay.php?131-Tools-and-Misc-wanted

You need to look for a bad connection somewhere. You have high resistance in the current path. Trace the power all the way back with the switch turned on. You'll find a spot where you'll have full voltage. Check your ground connections to the frame at the battery. Don't leave it that way for...

Just a friendly reminder that we aren't supposed to sell stuff in the general forums. That is reserved for the classified area.

Ceramic resisters will be very heat tolerant. If the values are correct they will be suitable (but usually larger) replacements.

I use a pair of vice grips with an old belt. Put the belt around the pulley and pinch it together with the vice grips. It will take a couple of tries to get the hang of it. Then you hold the vice grips and snug up the pulley bolts. They don't need to be super tight.

You shouldn't damage the multi-turn pots by turning them too far. The adjuster will just slip off the threads at the end. They have a little spring clip to keep it pushed up against the treads so it will catch when you turn it back the other way. The real issue is knowing when that has happens...

Ouch. Yea, that looks like it's going to be a tear-down. It won't hurt to give the soaking that Guy suggested. After seeing how much pressure you have in the crankcase I have doubts it will come back without a rebuild.

Have you looked in the TM for the trailer mounted unit? I seem to recall a drawing in there that had some dimensions on it. It is for measuring the MEP to mount on the trailer to get the CG correct.

Thanks for letting us know! Glad you got it going.

I would run it with progressively higher loads for a full day and see if it gets better. If after 3-4 hrs at 75% or more load nothing changes you have to decide to live with it or go into the engine to resolve it. Have you run it long enough to see its oil consumption rate? Does it look like...

That might be why you rarely see a generator with the ground rod kit. :)

Available at every lowes in the Orlando area. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Galvan-625-in-x-8-ft-Copper-Grounding-Rods/3446270

Looking forward to seeing your test results.

Quarts. Not gallons.

Load or no load doesn't really matter. If you have a ground fault it will zap you. Driving a rod and running a lead is cheap insurance. If they are sitting on the ground near your power panel the ground rod should be right there. Find it and run a wire over to it. If you plan to do some...

Sorry to drop off suddenly. Work got busy. If cleaning it and exercising it doesn't solve the problem quickly the best thing is to replace it. Bad contacts can cause a fire. You don't want to play around with that.

Do you hear the relay click when you flip the switch each time?

Nice job and enjoyed the video.

I'm the admin on the 24HoursOfLemons forum. If that counts for anything. http://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/