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I found out that a MEP003 was much too much for my all electric (except gas cooktop) house. When I tested everything out I found that I had to turn on the dryer, water heater, and oven at the same time to get the load up to 75%. A neighbor that owns a farm finally pestered me enough that I sold...

Can you post your test results?

THWN-2 (90C) 6 ga copper wire is good for 75 amps. That is more than enough for a MEP803a. 75C wire is good for 65A. Still OK but closer. There is no difference in cost so why not go for 90C wire.

The question about cable size got inserted in more as a comment than a question if I read the above posts correctly. As a general rule of thumb you use the ampacity table for wire lengths up to about 100'. For lengths between 100' and 250' you would go up one wire size to keep voltage drop...

Thanks for starting a new thread. The total output is about 50A between the two hot wires (L1 & L3). Where this is a little tricky is that you can have 240v and 120v loads. The 120v loads won't distribute amps equally between L1 & L3. This unbalanced 120v load is carried back on the neutral...

This really needs to be its own thread.

This strongly suggests you have a blockage somewhere downstream of the return line. I would suggest removing the cover over the fuel tank and disconnecting the return line at the tank. Put it in a jar and see if you get flow back through the line.

The info you need on the VR board isn't in the standard TMs. The following are my thoughts on how I would do it. I offer these thoughts with zero guarantee of success and zero guarantee of not blowing it all up (or worse, hurting yourself). It is possible to seriously injure yourself and...

Ok. You are right based on your description. Your voltage regulators are not playing nice together. Driving both from one regulator is likely going to damage the regulator. I don't recommend doing that. Since you are determined to parallel the generators I would recommend setting them each...

That won't work the way you want. To do that right you need VRs with external biasing. PLUS... That won't fix the circulating currents. Your problem is with the governors on the generators. Not the voltage regulators. Difference in torque from each engine is the source of the circulating current.

I would make a linkage. As you point out its a simple slotted bracket. If someone can measure one for you it will be easy to replicate. I'm 3000 miles from mine or I would be happy to do that for you.

I'm still working on it. I'll remove the watermark as soon as its done. It shouldn't be a problem to read through it. I made it very light. Just want anyone using it to know that its not fully vetted yet. Here is the base layer without the watermark -...

Your welcome. I'm part fossil myself. ;)

I posted a file with everything in separate sheets. It makes the file larger but you can see things easier if your reader software doesn't support layers. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2ucd1TGFTw_QkZLblNsRlBIcUE/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-J1RsuEKYstDFaYwCxcV_dQ

Let me know if you can't do layers. I'll export everything as separate sheets.

In case this makes it easier I've made a google drive link. This will always be the latest version of the file. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2ucd1TGFTw_b0dqdURiS3lOZlU

Download the attachment in this message. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?159693-MEP-Drawing-restoration&p=1941339&viewfull=1#post1941339

If you have Adobe Acrobat you should be able to open the "Layers" dialog and toggle them on and off with the little eyeball icons next to each layer.

Can a few members download the drawing and let me know if the layer feature is working with your PDF reader? You should be able to turn off the B+ layer and make the highlighting go away. I've tested it with Adobe and it works.

It is the control power circuit breaker. It is mounted on a bracket behind the gauge panel near the center. It pops out like a turkey timer when it trips. Push in to reset.