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The exciter wire is a smaller gauge than the power output wire. Make sure the smaller wire is on the EXC terminal and the larger wire is on the + terminal.

Woohoo! Friggin finally. My gut feeling is that its wired up wrong. I bet someone swapped the output and exciter wires. Did your charge indicator work? It should show in the green when the unit is running.

Ok. This should do it then. Disconnect all the wires from the alternator and make sure they aren't touching anything. I think either your regulator is bad or someone wired up the alternator wrong. Don't let any of the wires touch either other. Start it up then try to shut it down with S1.

OK. Same thing but pull K15.

I want to double check this one. I don't have CR1 on my reference schematic coming off Term C of L5. I have it on the diode from the output of the alternator (G2). I do find myself in Europe from time to time. I could show up for that beer. :D I've included the latest version. I think we are...

Do you know which relay is K16? I would like you to start the unit then turn S1 to OFF. Next, remove K16 from its socket. See if it shuts down.

I'm looking at the documents now.

Hm.. Wonder if its the starter lockout switch.

Snap a photo of the tag on the motor. I expect the answer is going to be no. Single phase motors on compressors are really hard to start.

One of the trailers I recovered had a bearing that needed to be lubricated. The hub ran warm on the drive home. I took it easy and it was fine but don't forget if you decide to tow it to stop and check things on a regular basis. Good luck with your adventure.

I think we are in better shape now with that one than we were when I started. :) I'll take care of those items tonight and give it another look myself. Then I'll start working on the circuit breakdowns. Tripple Jim - Once I'm done redrawing everything into an editable format it would be...

If you are within +/-5% you aren't going to do damage. That is a 10% total window. A good running MEP will be WAY inside that range.

Knowing what it isn't is important. :) One step closer to finding the problem.

A little bit of sleeplessness and I worked on it a little. Now to get a shower an d be miserable in the office all day.

Thanks! I had some of those on the list to correct. You answered a couple of questions from the schematic. One thing of note I wanted to talk to you about. I redrew S5 to be more straight forward. The way it was drawn before I think it is harder to understand. I flipped the terminal numbers so...

I think I have it to the point that I need a few other sets of eyes to review for mistakes. I have a few symbols to clean up and a bunch of lines to tidy up but this should be in pretty good shape. Once I know the background drawing is accurate I'll go in and do the layers for the different...

I'm trying to figure the best route to eliminate A2. Since I don't know all the failure modes for that device I'm just guessing. If CB1 shuts it down it we may be looking at a power leak on A2. If CB1 shuts it down the next step will be to lift the wire going to Term 4 on A2. So far I feel...

If the regulator is toast that would explain the blown diodes. Look for part # 8RG3063.

My thoughts are to spin it round and make sure nothing is binding. If it spins nicely prime it up and see if it will run. Run it a bit to knock the rust off the internals. Do a compression/leakdown test. If that goes well and the engine is serviceable I would recommend sending the injectors and...

Thanks! I wasn't able to work on it tonight. I'm flying home tomorrow to winterize the house. When its done I hope that its a benefit to everyone. Its the least I can do to help out this great community.