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You're welcome. We will get this figured out. I also think we need to revisit the first set of reading now that you have the correct pin-out of the diagnostic port. I still think the problem is with the starter solenoid.

OK. Have you tried pulling CB1 out with S1 off and the engine running?

Another question, all the gauges continue to read correct values when S1 is off and the engine is running?

Download this one from the tech manual section and check out page 107. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=601961&d=1451935825

If you have some alligator clip wire jumpers I would recommend that you shut the engine down and remove the wires from terminal 3 on S1. Put the wires together on one end of the clip and clip the other end to terminal 3 on S1. Tape up that end so it stays together and doesn't short against...

See if this helps.

As in there is no pin in there or you don't have a diagram that shows pin K?

Please read the voltage at pin "R" in the diagnostic port with the engine running and S1 in the "OFF" position?

Ok. Great. We have eliminated the starter solenoid as the problem. If you have 24v at K with the switch off we need to track that down. Both should be 0.

Sure. VOM is a Volt Ohm Meter. It will test restance (ohms) with a very low voltage signal. Perfectly OK for testing electronic circuits but can be fooled in "POWER" circuits. An old Simpson analog meter can be better than a nice digital Fluke for some problems. Residual voltage across a...

I would MEG the contactor and not trust a standard VOM for this one. The other thing I would do is flip the breaker open and close 15-20 times and see if things change.

If you have voltage at the lugs with the breaker off it is likely the contacts are fused.

Can you please read the voltage at pin "N" in the diagnostic port with the engine running and S1 in the "OFF" position? Can you please read the voltage at pin "K" in the diagnostic port with the engine running and S1 in the "OFF" position? Measure from pins to ground.

That was the same date range mine was "reset". I wonder if there were a batch of bad rectifiers that came out. The alternator looked to have been rebuilt and everything looked new. Except for the parts that blowed up.

It will be a huge help Guyfang if you can review the drawing and let me know if there are mistakes/updates that need to be made (mine or from the factory). I will be able to correct the errors now and make sure we have the best resource available. It will make life a lot better for all us mere...

Indeed. The alternator is a Perstolite. Parts are readily available for them inexpensively. I would recommend testing the alternator and repairing it instead of replacing it. One of the generators I bought had no charging and it was fresh out of Tier 2 reset. I pulled the alternator apart and...

Sounds like its time to tear into the alternator.

Based on all you've done so far I'm wondering if you have a problem with the starter solenoid. I'm working to get the schematic cleaned up so its easier to understand. Let me finish that up and things should be a lot more clear.

Here is what its looking like. I'm going to call it quits for tonight.

Thanks! That saves me some time. :)