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Just to be clear, you are creating a separate power distribution system that will run outlets that are completely independent of the utility provided power system?

Do you have oil pressure on the gauge when you are holding the switch it in the "START" position?

If it won't stay running you need to troubleshoot that problem. A couple of places to start is with the low oil pressure switch and the high engine temp switch circuits. Anything lit up on the alarm panel? Do the lights work when you "TEST"?

AND Don't switch it with the generator running.

When the quad wingdings go out you are totally hosed. No VR is possible. You would have to get that rewound or replace the rotor.

What he ^ said.

The governors on those are problematic. Read the docs and let us know how its going.

Give these threads a read and see if they help. They should point you in the right direction to get the switch going. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?98139-5k-broken-reconnect-switch...

Engine parts are available but are on the expensive side. You'll pay a couple hundred bucks for a gasket set alone. You may want to pull the head at least and check the passages. That should be in the low hundred dollar range for gaskets.

If holding the switch in doesn't give you power output you need to troubleshoot the exciter circuit and rotating assembly. First check if the field flash is getting to the leads going to the alternator. That will be on the excitation circuit of the alternator. If you have power leaving the...

If you have power at the GFCI then the inverter is making power. Have you done the troubleshooting to see why you are not getting power to the output contactor coil? Have you tested the output contactor to make sure it works if you apply power to the coil?

In my case it is for ease of use for the wife. Going through a start procedure on a diesel isn't what she wants to do when the power goes out. Flipping a switch at the generator then flipping the transfer switch is reasonable to her. Anything more is not.

Roger that. Keep us posted on what you find. It could help someone else.

I don't have personal experience with these so I'm sorry I won't be more helpful. From what I've read the main issue troubling the HMI of these units is moisture. Is there any signs of water damage?

That absolutely will happen. Assuming they can get to you. I live in a rural neighborhood. The lots are in acres but we do have neighbors. Our last big ice storm was before I got a MEP. Our neighbor had a Home Depot gasser. He went through 2 of them during the outage. I had passive gas heat so I...

Uh.. That ain't happening at my house. I live the "Green Acres" TV show.

I've had an opportunity to use mine a couple of times for a few of days for the max stretch. The wife now gets it. She is also a city girl. She hasn't had the pleasure of enduring 10 days of no power from a North Carolina ice storm. My next step is to get the batteries from a wrecked Chevy...

Since your solenoid is not releasing you need to look through the TM and trace the circuit back. You may have a stuck relay in the control panel.

You can upload the video on youtube and post the link here. When you move the fuel stop solenoid does it rotate the cam on the side of the engine?

And if you haven't grounded it yet do that PRONTO. If you are having some electrical issues you want to reduce the risk of electrocuting yourself.