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If the E-Stop is pushed in you will get no control power. If you pulled out the switch check to make sure the contacts behind the panel closed. They may be stuck. There is a DC circuit breaker that you can pull out (behind the panel). That will also kill control power. Check that as well...

Go through and check all the connections behind the panel. Look for anything that is loose. Look to see if you cracked any of the diodes on the board on the left hand side. Think about anything that could be affected by the generator being bumped around.

Exercise your phase selector switch behind the panel and see if anything changes. Don't change it with the generator running.

Did you pull out the E-Stop?

Can you take a short video of you moving the part back and forth?

Take a look at this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye_penetrant_inspection See if you mechanic had a dye kit. If not you can get it pretty reasonably online. Its good that the cracks don't appear to go all the way though. A dye test will let you see cracks that are coming that you can't...

Its hard to tell how severe those are. My gut is that they aren't terminal. Do you have the stuff to do a dye test? To see if there are other micro cracks.

I would troubleshoot all the switches first. That is where the wear or corrosion is going to take its toll first.

I saw that on the webpage. Make sure it is printed on the wire itself before you buy it. Its not a bad idea to snap a photo of the label on the side of the reel. It will have all the ratings on it. Saves trouble later.

Make sure that cable has a THWN rating. Many cables are dual rated as THHN and THWN. You will need the THWN rating to put it in underground conduit.

Sounds pretty reasonable.

NEMA is an equipment standard. It covers enclosures and stuff like that which includes items where power carrying components are contained. NEC is what we refer to as the electrical code. If the question whether electrical code applies to mobile generators the answer is yes, it does. AND it...

Hahaha, yea. In this case you are getting a bargain. I'm an EE who is also a licensed electrician. Well, my licence hasn't been active in a long time but I have to keep up with the code since I do design work. I don't work in the field anymore. I have to add, you need to check with the local...

You can run 12/2 ROMEX for a 20a 120v or a 240v circuit (no neutral). You would put black phasing tape on the neutral for the 240v circuit but it is OK to do it in this situation where in the other situation (changing a load carrying conductor to a neutral) it isn't OK. You can't run ROMEX...

Using individual conductors in a conduit is my preferred method where practical. You can't run individual conductors outside of a conduit or box. You would need to run conduit all the way to your termination box or set a junction box and transition from individual conductors to a cable that...

Totally agree. Sorry to have to give you that news.

Nope. You MAY be able to get away with that cable if its in conduit above ground (depending on the temperament of the inspector). If you put the conduit below grade it is considered a wet location. You will need to use cable rated for wet locations. Sorry. :(

FYI - That cable isn't rated to run between the generator and the structure. It is for indoor use only. You need a different kind of cable to run out to the generator. Obviously it will function but it would fail an inspection.

You are OK with 6/3 w/ground. [thumbzup] Be sure to remove the ground/neutral bonding jumper at the generator.

6/3 won't be code legal for a generator feed. You need to run a 4 wire cable.