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#4 or #6 would be appropriate for 60a depending on length. You are good on amps. Voltage drop ends up being the limitation as the leads get longer. #6 is good up to about 100' and #4 for over 100' and up to about 250'.
What size sub panel are you going to put in? That will determine the minimum acceptable wire size.
Assuming you go copper wire: If you put in a 60a subpanel you will be fine with #6 (under 100'). If you do a 75a panel you COULD get away with #6 THHN-2 on amps but I would rather see #4 for...
Hoffman boxes of sufficient sizes can be found second hand. They are pretty cheap used. Get one that is deep and mount lots of outlets inside. You make some generous sized holes in the bottom to accommodate cords with connectors on them. For the large outlets you mount them either on the sides...
3 phase is the standard in industrial/commercial installations. You have to pay a premium to get 3 phase in a residential install. I see it occasionally. For most that have a shop at their home they are stuck with single phase unless they want to pay a lot more for 3 phase service.
I expect we are talking single phase which is a bigger challenge.
On the plus side they may be able to change the starting capacitor and/or put in a different unloader to reduce the starting power required. Those things are maybes though and would require some experimentation. At best I expect...
It can but its not likely you will be running over 50a for any length of time. The issue there obviously is heat. You don't want to damage the insulation on the cable from excess heat.
The cord I use has a lower temperature rise vs THHN due to all the layers of insulation and everything being...
I have a 100' of #6 cord that I use for my generator setup.
If you look at cable voltage drop charts (3%) #6 copper is good for 50a up to 100'.
For anything 100' and under #6 copper for 50a is the sweet spot of size and cost. If you want to overkill it use #4. #4 is good at 50a up to 200'.
+1 on everything Guyfang said. Until it will pull a steady 120% resistive load it isn't working correctly. High inrush loads like motor starts require a generator to be in top operating condition.
Have you tested voltage at the outputs when you change the phase selector switch?
The phase selector switch would be the first thing to test in my opinion.
This is my OPINION based on what I see in the market around NC/SC. It may or may not apply to your specific area.
For what you are going to pay for a very nice 803 you are getting into the range of one of the RV quiet diesels. Expect to pay in the range of $5-6k for an 803 that is really nice...
The throttle cable has been discussed here a number of times. A quick search will get you pointed in the right direction for a replacement.
The best thing to do is to replace it and know you are in good shape. If I remember correctly the replacement is in the $50 range.
The pump will cut in at roughly 5/8-3/4 tank and fill to about 7/8. I say roughly since its a float switch and there is a little variability. You can dig though the service manuals and find the specifications for the switches if you need more exact numbers.
It should put in around 3/4 of a...
This is one of the easier gaskets to make. Just get a sheet of graphite gasket material and cut one out. You can do it in like 5 minutes with a set of cheap chisels.
Edit - https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-5960-Ultra-Exhaust/dp/B000BWAPHA/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8CM9VRS8BSGWNHCC9QRP
The gauge on the genny is calibrated for a 0.8 power factor. It will read low on restive loads such as your oven. Your real load was likely closer to 80%.
You may be fine if you don't put the AUX tank up too high. I have seen one report recently here on the forum where an elevated AUX supply resulted in a fuel spill on the generator from an overflow.
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