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That is possible. The later versions of those indicators are LED.

I have the base layer ready to go. I think all the errors have been corrected. I've started working on the circuit layers. I have the B+ one done. The software isn't merging them as it is supposed to though. I have a help ticket in to ask about it. More to come as I have time to work on it.

I think a short video of what is happening will be most helpful.

I had to drill a few holes to bolt it down but this is how my MEP803a looks on a M116 with civilian tires on it.

I'm not quite done yet. I've been traveling a good bit over the last couple of weeks and haven't had a lot of time to work on it.

You would need a bearing puller or press for that. It would be a lot less fun than rebuilding the electrics.

Well, that confirms my gut feeling about those generators. Wow.

That will do it!

In this situation you can't because the batteries are already in series. The best way to keep the batteries balanced is to buy a 24v-12v power supply for any 12v loads you need to drive. Look up DC-DC buck converter. You'll find a number of options.

Absolutely. That is commonly done on commercial tanks for fuel polishing.

Pull the glowplugs and turn it over by hand with the crank pulley. It should spin over quite easily. If it has no crank pulley run the crank bolt in and turn it over with a wrench.

I would add that many of the voltages you need to check are on the Diagnostic Plug. Use it. Look at the wiring diagram and see what info you can get from the plug. That will be much safer. Don't dig around in the wiring until you have exhausted the troubleshooting options in the diagnostic plug.

Have you tested your glowplugs and GP relay to make sure they are actually working? The MEP003 I had would NOT start cold without a generous dose of GP even on a warm day. On a cold day it took 60-90 seconds MINIMUM before even trying it or you could forget it. If I preheated it long enough it...

Nice work! Glad to hear you got it patched up.

That one about fried my brain. Its not easy to troubleshoot by proxy.

I'm thinking that is a typo. CR1 (the diode) is on the left side of the drawing on the output of the alternator.

One down at least. :) You're welcome.

I kept going over the wiring diagram and looking for places where power could be injected into the "RUN" circuit. After we had exhausted component failures I figured it had to be a wiring error. Also since you indicated that the voltage was present only while the engine was running and not when...

Ok. You are on the right track now. Cross your fingers that a simple wire swap fixes this problem.

I'll have to go lookup the output terminals on the alternator. There may be a combination of wires that would do that. Were each of the wires on the alternator landed on different terminals?