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A rubber hammer isn't going to do it. You need something big and heavy. There are cone washers around each of the studs that are probably seized in there pretty well. I had to bash mine with a drilling hammer to break them loose.

I took my knuckles apart and evidently forgot to take pictures of a boot clamps. What's the correct position for the one piece silicone boots and the inner and outer clamps/bolts? Need to know where they're supposed to be so they don't hit the knuckles when they're all the way left/right...

I see you got the Mars Red camo paint. Nice.

Paint stripper, wire wheels, and lots of elbow grease. I tried a orbital sander with 80 grit pads and it barely touched the CARC.

I'm planning to spray whatever I strip with phosphoric acid to keep the rust at bay. When I get a few parts stripped I'll paint them all with POR-15.

Well I ordered the sandblaster attachment and bought a 3100 psi and 2.5GPM pressure washer at home depot. The attachment should be here tomorrow and I'm going to do a test run when I get home from work. Stand by for pics. EDIT: Looks like i'm going to have to reschedule the pics for tomorrow...

I had no idea this existed! Learn something new every day. The reviews are positive too. I might just skip the compressor rental and buy a pressure washer instead. Here's a thread talking about it http://www.steelsoldiers.com/welding-sand-blasting/4030-pressurewasher-sandblaster-attachment.html

So you blast with all the panels still on the truck? Do you have spots that you can't reach?

Well my rough outline is to remove the bed and all the panels except for the cab itself. Blast everything and paint the frame/axles with por-15. Then do rust repair on the panels and por-15 those when done. I figure a little surface rust won't hurt too much since por-15 requires treating...

Is that just for the frame or the body panels/bed too? Did you reuse the sand? The combo you used would cost me $130ish per day + media. Might be worth it if I don't have to touch paint stripper again.

There is a place around here that can rent me a 180CFM diesel air compressor for $60/day. I'm thinking about renting it for a weekend, hooking it up to a HF 110lb sandblaster, and stripping down my truck. I'd use Black Diamond media from TSC. My question is will something with that much juice...

I'm definitely no expert but my welder has a chart on it that suggests speed and heat for each thickness of metal. Another tip I heard on a tv car show was to start at high power and work your way back until you stop burning holes. Obviously you'd do this on a piece of scrap metal.

Thanks for the info. I guess I'll finish stripping and start cutting.

I'm starting on the rust on my truck and to practice I'm stripping down a fender. I found a couple of rust holes. Problem is that under that hole there is another piece of metal that's not rusted through. What's the best way to deal with this type of rust? Pictures: imgur: the simple image sharer

He probably means it can be sanded off without blasting/dipping.

I believe POR-15 requires that you topcoat while the POR is still tacky. Maybe that's your problem.

I did my clutch/rear main by myself. I used a chain hoist with a farm jack across the cab to drop the transmission on a furniture dolly. Then I used a big transmission jack from harbor freight to lift it back into place. Even with the transmission jack it was a giant PITA to get it to align...

I don't think you can use compression fittings on brake lines.

There are some compatible pumps available on a certain popular auction site for a very good price. There is a thread on here discussing how to install them into the m35

Thanks for the info. I've got a set of alternator brackets ready to go on the truck when I swap my harness out in the spring. What I was actually curious about was the fording kit modification you mentioned. How does pressurizing the axles work?