Search results

Thanks! I hope you don't mind me making it a bit easier to read. EDIT: Hah just realized that post is from 2011, but it's still easier to read.

Awesome. BTW for all those considering doing the same you can crimp deutsch connectors with a harbor freight ratcheting crimper ($10 item #97420) and MSD Ignition 3510 jaw set ($38 on amazon). Makes it much less expensive to get set up.

Thanks for all the tips guys. The more I read about this the more I'm starting to think it's not such a good idea. Just the removal insertion tools seem to be $150 per set. Right now I'm leaning towards using more modern Deutsch style cannon plugs instead of the old stuff. Looking at these...

I'm referring to the plug that connects the rear harness to the front harness for example. Is there a tool to get the pins out or is there some trick to it? I've been searching the forum, but haven't found a specific thread that shows how one of these comes apart. The reason I ask is my rear...

**** I've been working in a cube so long I even see outlook messages in steelsoldiers screenshots. I need professional help.

I picked up a used air assist kit for $500 a few months ago and now that I looked up the prices they're going for online I'm half tempted to sell it and spring for the Waterloo kit. It's crazy how the prices are rising on m35 parts lately.

Good to know. Thanks. I was actually planning on stripping/painting them and testing my electrolysis tank on them.

I know the rears are riveted on, but is there any reason why I shouldn't drill out the rivets and replace them with grade 8 bolts/nuts? I'd like to clean them up and it would be easier off the truck.

Put some mud back on it. Helps protect the paint.

Do you reuse the sand? I've just been dumping it in the back yard.

Use this stuff from home depot. Same phosphoric acid but cheaper. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-gal-Phosphoric-Prep-and-Etch-GKPA30220/100406369#BVRRWidgetID

Does anyone have any thoughts on the best way to deal with it? Can't reach in there to scrub it out but painting over it seems like a waste of time too since it'll just come back up again.

Here is a very good source of high quality stripping wheels. I bought 10 of the extra coarse ones and they work great. They're even cheaper there than buying from harbor freight. http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/servlet/the-Clean-%26-Strip-Discs/Categories

I believe some NAPA stores do custom hoses. Might try that.

I just removed the wheels still attached to the hub/drum on my rear axle to replace the seals and the wheel cylinder. I didn't touch the adjusters when removing the wheel cylinder. My question is do I need to do the major brake adjustment if I'm replacing the cylinder and reusing the old pads...

I just squirted some air tool oil into mine.

Are the seals on those replaceable? I mean if the seal ever goes can I get a new seal and install it on this custom retainer?

I believe he's talking about these Custom Off-Road Equipment

I broke the "don't fix it if it aint broke" law and it appears to be biting me in the rear end. Tore the front axle apart to install all new seals and replace the brake cylinders and adjust brakes. the axle seals weren't leaking before. Now put it all back together and both sides are dripping...

Exactly what I though. They would probably have to be very very loose to jingle though.