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Also verified that CR5 is between terminals 10 and 11 of TB4.

Troubleshooting for the relay is on page 104 of TM9-6115-641-24.

Make sure you have voltage on terminal 3 of the main switch. That is where the power that runs the pump originates. If you have power there then the most likely cause is the contacts of K12.

I doubt CR5 is the problem. Its there to contain the inductive kickback from the fuel solenoid (L5). If it was shorted it would pop a fuse when the switch was thrown. If its open it will cause arcing on relay contacts along that same circuit during shutdown.. That being said, CR5 could be bad...

All the diodes should be behind the instrument panel in the control box. I'll have go out and look at one to see if one is labeled CR5.

I went the water heater element route for loading generators. It works great and is super affordable. It would be nice to add a variac to the mix to tweak the load. I know its a 1.0PF load but thats OK unless you are trying to test the trip on the breaker. I would LOVE to have a real load bank...

I should have mentioned this first.. Don't forget to test the diagnostic plug itself. Make sure you have good voltages across pins representing circuits you know work (like main B+ and GROUND). You want to make sure the ground and main power points in the plug are good since those are references...

It could. Its worth a check. Since they are easy to get to I would say to go ahead and check them first. The thing I would do next is to look at the schematic and follow the circuit back to the next test point. Check again and see if you have the expected voltage. When you find the first test...

Have you gone through the panel and tugged on all the wiring connections? It could be as simple as a loose terminal or a broken wire under a crimp connector. Those kind of problems are ones that are most likely and should be worked through first (in my opinion). I always look for mechanical...

I've started my 1hp well pump and my 3ton HP on a MEP802. The well sends the meter up to just under 100% and it falls straight back down to the low end of the scale. The engine registers the load but its not more than a bump. When the HP starts it pegs the load meter a good bit longer and...

I did lick a few 802s while I was there. Hopefully that will translate. :)

For the 802 you can't replace the fuel nipple on the injectors. Its soft tubing or nothing. Nylon isn't an option for the truly pain in the ass part of the fuel system. For other parts, sure. Not for the area around the injectors though which is the most fun to replace part. I'm in the middle...

You may want to consider adding a MEP831a to the mix. That inverter will load share and automatically run the generator to charge batteries or boost the inverter output. That is my plan at least.

Just so you know.. I touched it when I was at Ft. Bragg looking things over. Not in a bad way. ;)

Thats the same inverter that I'm considering. I'm looking at doing a hybrid with a MEP831a as a booster/battery charger. North Carolina is dropping its solar tax credits at the end of the year. :( I'm putting in solar water heating now and over time will build a solar electric system. That...

The Xantrex line of inverters can be configured 3-phase. That option will be a little more expensive since you have to buy 3 instead of 2. Keep us posted on your build. I for one am very interested in knowing how it goes.

If your house hasn't be built yet you may find it cheaper to wire it 3-phase than doing a transformer of the output of the generator. Installing a 3-phase panel is pretty much the only difference. You would wire your 120v and 208v circuits just the same. Most 240v appliances will run fine on...

Are you going to do the single phase mod on the generator or will you wire the house for 3 phase?

Glad you got it figured out.

Sure. I'll be over at the shop later today. I'll snap a photo.