Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
On the generator end I installed a 50a 4-wire outlet and wired it up to the generators output terminals and to the chassis ground. I mounted the box on the lower left side of the generator.
You should connect the leads it using the terminal diagram on the generator. How you connect it is based...
Exactly. If you are using it to power loads on the vehicle or via receptacle connected equipment (on or off vehicle) you must have the neutral and ground bonded and the generator grounded to the chassis of the vehicle. No ground electrode is necessary.
An exception that could be encountered by...
A trailer mounted generator is the same as a truck mounted generator. No differentiation there. It doesn't require grounding when loads are outlet fed.
You will need to remove the neutral-ground bond at the generator when using it to power a residence with a bonded neutral at the service...
You will want to bond the generator ground to the vehicle frame.
Per NEC 250.34 you don't need to bond the vehicle to a ground electrode if the vehicle mounted generator is connected to loads via outlets mounted on the vehicle/generator (including any metal outlet boxes) and/or hard wired to...
You will want to connect the neutral wire in your cable to the neutral lug at the generator as well as connecting it to the neutral terminal in the breaker box.
That is the correct setup for what you are going to do. With that bonding jumper in place you will improve the safety of the setup by connecting the neutral at the box and at the generator even though for the load it isn't necessary.
Unless the bonding jumper at the generator has been removed the neutral and chassis ground are connected. When you install the ground rod you'll reduce the possibility of a shock from touching the box if a load conductor happens to touch the box. It will also give a fault path and trip the breaker.
Thats a tough question that we can't answer for you.
If you read the forum here you'll see what the common failures and how to fix them. I've not seen much here that a decent handyman can't take care of with regular tools.
Even if you buy a new one it too can break. The warranty periods are...
You can wire them that way but you will be sending each element 120v instead of 240v so the wattage will be half.
You would need to wire up 4 in total to get you near 10kw. You would wire them in two groups. Each pair would be wired in parallel which would bring you back up to about 4500w on...
For a diesel unit in the 5000-7500w range budget $4500-$8000. That will get you a new unit with a warranty. Below the 5kw range you get into an area where I wouldn't recommend a diesel at all. I don't think they are as well made or reliable. In my opinion that is because no one wants to spend...
If you aren't one to work on your own stuff then I would agree that a MEP isn't for you.
You can also get one of the Honda inverter based generators and enjoy low noise and low fuel consumption with gasoline. I have two of them and they are my first choice for lower power needs. One has over...
If you have your own PLC running the 003 it shouldn't be hard to program an output to handle the Generac transfer switch. I wouldn't go through the effort to replace it if its already installed.
You could be looking in the wrong place. Try looking in one of the generator manuals such as this one and see if it helps:
http://www.elem.com.pl/app/webroot/files/File/generac/ManualInstalation.pdf
You can get the 002 with an ASK.
Do you have a generator now that starts your ACU?
Oh and a hard start unit doesn't work that way. Its basically an extra large starting capacitor.
I suspect it would start it if it was the only thing running at the time. The inrush on my unit is close to the 130% limit of an 002. If you were running 20-30% load on the 002 the breaker may trip.
I think this one is too close to call with certainty.
I have a 4T 13 SEER unit about 10 years old and my MEP003a starts it without issue. When the compressor kicks off the load meter on the MEP will jump from 15% to 75% then settle back down to about 35%. Other than a puff of smoke from the exhaust it doesn't seem to care.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!